I was asked today by someone who wants to study Ayurvedic massage in India where to go to study.

I studied in Varkala, Kerala state in 2002 and 2003. Last year I was asked to recommend a place to study and receive massage/panchakarma in India. I told my friend to goto Varkala, find Friendship hospital and ask for Maddhu. Unfortunately, Friendship closed down. I studied with Dr. Manoj at the Sanjeevan school in Varkala as well.

If you are a seasoned traveller or are already prepared to travel to India then jump right into it, I hope the info below helps. If you haven't been to India or travelled much, you should first concern yourself with preparing for the trip. If you cannot stay healthy and sane during your trip, your training will be compromised.

There are many people in India who are eager to teach you their unique style of Ayurvedic massage. Since the field of Ayurvedic massage is vast, you should probably first determine what exactly you want to learn. In Kerala in the south, the massage style is generally lighter, focusing on detoxification and is meant to prepare the recipient for panchakarma. In the north, you may find a deeper style, more akin to sports massage.

You can set something up in advance or follow serendipidty. Some hotspots for training is anywhere in Kerala, especially the beach resorts near Trivandrum, Auroville (north of Pondicherry), Goa and Pune (near Mumbai). Speak with fellow travellers and hit message boards like Loneley Planet and Tribe for advice.

Check some of the links below for advance planning, as well as the other posts on this board. We have some members of this group from India who would be more than helpful, I am sure.

For me, the environment and accomodations have to be right. In Varkala there is a beautiful beach and cliff, gardens, fresh air, serenity, access to many types of foods and creature comforts, yoga schools, and a good mix of tourists and local culture. You certaintly wont find all this in a big city. That is why I recommend places like Kerala, Goa and Auroville and would encourage you to steer cleer of schools in Mumbai and Delhi for example. I've never been to Pune but have heard the environment is rather pleasant, with an eclectic feel and the good vibes of the OSHO community wafting over the city.

Your comort and life outside of your training is paramount and should be given consideration when committing to a course of training. Avoid paying fees in advance and dont feel bad to leave a situation that is not working.

Next decide if you want a formal course of study at an established school or to apprentice under a true master or family lineage. The places listed below are formal education programs which have structure. The instructors should be formally educated. Some Ayurvedic doctors know little of massage, some specialize in it, so a degree is not a guarantee of proficiency in massage.

You could learn from gurus and lineage holders with no formal education and this training may be transformative, or a total sham. Use your intuition and do your homework if you want to go that route. Your course should have theory and your instructor should have a good command of English.

Finally, how much time do you have? You shoud be able to commit at least a month to your training. If you don't have much time, you should make advanced arrangements. Beware that the pace in India is slower and that giving and receiving massage in a foreign place every day can really tax your body. You should not try to accomplish too much.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A partial list of formal programs in India:

The most famous place in India to both receive and study all aspects of Ayurveda, including massage, is Kottakkal Arya Vaidya Sala - near Kozhikode. You should contact them in advance by phone or email to set up a training program in your specific course of study. I've heard they offer clinical training, which is a huge plus: www.aryavaidyasala.com

A 30 day course in all the techniques of panchakarma including abhyanga with Prabhat: www.panchendriya.com/ayuervedic-courses.htm

There is a great teacher in Pune, his name escapes me, check back for updates.

The Sivananda ashram south of Trivandrum sometimes offers month long courses in abhyanga, if you can time it right this would be a blessing. Even without a formal class offering, you should be able to absorb alot about Ayurvedic massage and yoga here:
www.sivananda.org/neyyardam/program.htm

What else? Please post your thoughts and comments.