This should be fine. A one-watt module at 12 volts is 83 mA. We'll just round up and call it 100 mA (that's 1/10 of an amp) This is how much current the LED will draw.

The battery is rated at 12 Amp-Hours. In theory it will drive 1 amp for 12 hours, or in the case of one 1-W LED module, 100 mA for 120 hours. So you should have plenty of juice for one 1W module. At the other extreme, if you bought two 3-watt modules, you're looking at six times the current draw, which reduces battery life to 1/6 of that, or 20 hours off one charge.

For the wiring: note that lower number means fatter wire, so 24 and 22 gauge wire are *bigger* than 26 gauge wire, so you should be fine. I would not go smaller (bigger number) than 26 gauge wire.

As for how to hook it up. Let's start simple. If you were hooking up one LED module without a switch, you would connect the LED assembly's positive (+) wire to the battery's positive (+) terminal, and the LED assembly's negative (-) terminal to the battery's (-) terminal. So from the LED module you basically have one wire going to battery + and one wire going to battery -. That's it.

To add the switch, simply insert the switch to one of those wires. It doesn't matter which one, but most people would put the switch on the positive wire, unless they're into old English sports cars (that's an inside joke, a lame one at that, for people into old English sports cars).

So you have:
battery negative terminal -> LED negative terminal, and
LED positive terminal -> switch -> battery positive terminal.

For two LED modules, simply connect the two modules in parallel with each other (tie the two LED module positive terminals together, and then the two LED module negative terminals together).

Here's the only possible catch. You will note that there are two possible "directions" you can hook the switch up. (One terminal is going to be closer to battery +, but which one? you have two choices). For an ordinary switch it does not matter. But you have chosen a lighted switch, and it might matter, depending on whether the switch uses a light bulb or an LED for a light source. The good news is that nothing bad will happen if you hook it up the wrong way (this is true of the big LED too, by the way). The switch will still function, but if it has an LED, the LED will only light up if the switch is connected the "right" way. Personally, I would opt for a non-lighted switch if I could.

I noticed that the battery you're getting is not deep-cycle. I don't know much about it, but our camp has always used deep cycle batteries because (I believe) you can run them down pretty far and still recharge them. Regular batteries you can only run down like 20% before you have to recharge them or they can't be recharged, I think. Maybe someone here has a better idea about the benefits of deep-cycle batteries.

I could be completely wrong. Feel free to give me a good hard smack on the ass and tell me to move along if so :)

Lot's of links to 12 volt info over on the SOLAR DEATH RAY 3000 profile:

people.tribe.net/5969572e-...be3d08f572