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Extant Partlets??

topic posted Fri, April 30, 2010 - 8:13 PM by  Kimiko
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I was going over Arnold's last book, Patterns of Fashion 4, last night and finally noticed that there is only one extant partlet, in plain linen, noted in the book. (Some of you may have read my rant on this in another post.)

Does anyone here know if there are any other extent partlets, plain or decorated, around? Or if there is anyone who has done, or is doing research in this area?

Thank you.
posted by:
Kimiko
Fresno
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  • Re: Extant Partlets??

    Fri, April 30, 2010 - 8:54 PM
    I believe in the text of the book she mentions the lack to partlets and comments on it. I had the same question myself recently (I'm on a partlet tear). I don't recall having ever seen one. But I'll keep my eyes peeled.
    • Re: Extant Partlets??

      Fri, April 30, 2010 - 9:05 PM
      I read that as well. But I was just covering the bases, and seeing if perhaps there were others that were either unknown at the time Ms. Arnold did her research, or just wasn't available at the time. Or if there was maybe updated info that someone in research circles might know about.
  • Re: Extant Partlets??

    Thu, May 6, 2010 - 1:56 AM
    Kimiko

    I've found an extant partlet and I don't know why I'd forgotten all about it. I *think* I have a better photograph of it somewhere but this will have to suffice for now:
    www.renaissancetailor.com/demos...ts.htm
    This image down on this page. I think its the latter period of the 16th century, possibly early 17th century but I doubt the patterning would have changed much at all.

    i'll cross post to your journal as well.

    Bess.
    • Re: Extant Partlets??

      Thu, May 6, 2010 - 4:24 AM
      Good catch, Bess. I'd completely forgotten about that one, but it brings to mind (dimly) some others in a similar vein. Tally-hotep in search of those.
    • Re: Extant Partlets??

      Thu, May 6, 2010 - 12:46 PM
      Thank you so much Bess. Too bad this little image is uncited. I wonder if it is from a lace book?
      • Re: Extant Partlets??

        Thu, May 6, 2010 - 1:11 PM
        I spent a while last night and this morning Googling partlet images for you, K-Grrrl, and came up with zippo. Learned a lot, but couldn't find anymore images. If I'm feeling brave I think I'll send an email to Jenny T. (of PofF4) and she if she or Ms. Levey has/have any insight. Worth a try, eh?
  • Re: Extant Partlets??

    Thu, May 6, 2010 - 5:10 PM
    What about in inventories? Are they mentioned often? I know some of you have examined several...

    Currently, I have a migraine so I will only be examining the back of my eyelids. :-(
    • Re: Extant Partlets??

      Thu, May 6, 2010 - 7:02 PM
      They are listed in inventories for both men and women, at least during Henry VIII's time. I've not looked much at Elizabethan era yet. We know they existed, but right now the best info we have on them are images, and the one extant plain linen Flemish one of the 1630s (or whatever it is exactly... not looking at the book right now).
      • Re: Extant Partlets??

        Thu, May 6, 2010 - 7:54 PM
        Elspeth is the expert of inventories, but I know she's in the final throws of her doctorate, so I'm loathe to bother her. But after the 10th, release the E-Beetle! She has the scary ability to quote QEWU at the drop of a hat, which is quite frightening.
        • Re: Extant Partlets??

          Thu, May 6, 2010 - 8:22 PM
          Flatterer! I will indeed dive in and search after I get this monster document in on the 10th. Meanwhile I lurk.

          Limited hopes, though. One obvious trouble with looking for partlets in the inventories is that linens were not mostly kept by the Wardrobe (so no plain partlets) nor were jewels (so any partlet sufficiently sparkly not to be classified as linens got stored somewhere else).

          Best contemporaneous depiction of plain linen partlets I know of is painted on a ceiling the Summer Apartments at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence. Several are hanging out to dry on a washerwoman's line, about 25' overhead. Nearly sheer, and, if memory serves, at least one has an attached neckband with a ruffle above.
          • Re: Extant Partlets??

            Thu, May 6, 2010 - 8:33 PM
            I believe that ceiling fresco is also in PoF4, as the description matches what I read.

            But when you have time. I will also redive into QEWU when I can, but I am trying to wrap my mind around a little boy's court costume in the next week, along with properly finishing my giant ruff, so this is a backburner issue for me as well right now.

            Thanks all.
            • Re: Extant Partlets??

              Fri, May 7, 2010 - 8:55 AM
              FYI – Kim, if you want to bend Claudia’s ear for a tig, she’ll be in town this weekend working on Bohemian Bathhouse Babe linens with me at the house.
              • Re: Extant Partlets??

                Fri, May 7, 2010 - 10:57 AM
                @ Krillgar: Do I even want to know what that means and should I be jealous and why wasn't I invited?
                • Re: Extant Partlets??

                  Fri, May 7, 2010 - 11:10 AM
                  Noel honey, you are welcome anytime! If you get the sudden urge to head to the central valley this weekend you can jump in on some linen sewing as well. ;)
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Extant Partlets??

                    Fri, May 7, 2010 - 11:25 AM
                    Believe it or not, I'm heading to Modest Toad to see my mom on Sunday. So you're safe, but not by much. I just got through washing and bleaching a ton of linen that the garage decided to leak on. Oxygen bleach (and lemons and Barkeeper's Friend) stood me in good stead in dealing with mildew and rust. Linen's incredible stuff.
  • Re: Extant Partlets??

    Mon, May 10, 2010 - 1:01 PM
    Kimiko -

    I posted the pics from the Pitti Palace onto the photo section. A couple of partlets and other undeclothes.
    • Re: Extant Partlets??

      Mon, May 10, 2010 - 1:11 PM
      Thank you, thank you, thank you! There is at least one image of a partlet that is not in the PoF4 book, and to see them in color, and to see the whole overview of them is wonderful.

      Would it be possible to get larger images from you?
      • Re: Extant Partlets??

        Mon, May 10, 2010 - 2:22 PM
        Trying to find larger images
        • Re: Extant Partlets??

          Mon, May 10, 2010 - 3:08 PM

          Okay posted some more examples of the same not really sure if they are bigger though. The original picture I believe is in Moda de Firenze the Clothing inventory of Duchess Elenora de Toledo de Medici and even there it's not all that big. Hope it helps though. :)
          • Re: Extant Partlets??

            Mon, May 10, 2010 - 3:25 PM
            Wonderful, and I do have that book (not looked at since I bought it tho), so I can scan and make bigger from there.

            Thank you so very much Pax. Greatly appreciated.
            • Re: Extant Partlets??

              Mon, May 10, 2010 - 3:27 PM
              <<Wonderful, and I do have that book (not looked at since I bought it tho), so I can scan and make bigger from there.>>

              K, you left off the part "and share with my bestest, bestest friend Noel...." Just thought I'd point that out.

              TY, Pax.
              • Re: Extant Partlets??

                Mon, May 10, 2010 - 3:29 PM
                Will do most definitely. Will share with anyone who wants. Want to scan right now, but must do ruff work first. {sigh}
                • Re: Extant Partlets??

                  Mon, May 10, 2010 - 4:09 PM
                  Can we also identify the other garments in the pictures? Enquiring minds want to know.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Extant Partlets??

                    Mon, May 10, 2010 - 4:36 PM

                    Well the one with the blonde in the pic looks as though there is a lacy wrist ruff and one of the turban wraps Italian women used to wear.

                    Some of the stuff I have absolutely no idea what the heck the stuff is though.
                    • Re: Extant Partlets??

                      Tue, May 11, 2010 - 7:02 AM
                      In response to Pax' and Rebecca's comments, I hauled out PofF4 and added some notes to the photos which Pax was kind enough to upload. Unfortunately we're missing the image of the woman "finger training" a partlet as it dries to set the ruffle. In searching for the images online, I was marveling at Alessandro Allori's work, especially from a costume perspective. Lots and lots of images available which I've never seen before (he seems to have existed under the shadow of Bronzino and to have not been given a lot of attention). There's a particularly beautiful picture of a gentleman in black with a great lace-edge ruff. Very sombre and elegant. I think Pax would like it. He's identified as Piero de Medici, but I can't seem to find him in the Medici family trees. Pax?????. www.google.com/imgres
                      • Re: Extant Partlets??

                        Tue, May 11, 2010 - 5:06 PM

                        I take back what I messaged you Noel.

                        The more and more I look the more it really does appear that, the sitter in that portrait is Don Pietro de Medici. He was also known as Piero and Pedro depending upon where he was and most of the time he was in service to Spain.

                        This would have to be a portrait done in his early or mid twenties around 1570 - 1575. Although looking at his later portraits beyond the eyes his appearance changes: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Ca...'_Medici

                        I have a photocopy of the book Portraits of the Medici I will take a look in that and see what I have. Which reminds I need a scanner :P
                        • Re: Extant Partlets??

                          Tue, May 11, 2010 - 5:13 PM
                          Oh sorry Pietro was the youngest child of Duke Cosimo I and Eleonora de Toledo. Basically he was a spendthrift and rake, he is also known for murdering(prompted by his brother the Grand Duke Francesco), his wife Eleonora de Garzia de Toledo(niece to the above Eleonora), whom he accused of adultery.
                          • Re: Extant Partlets??

                            Tue, May 11, 2010 - 8:20 PM
                            You're gooood!
                            • Re: Extant Partlets??

                              Tue, May 11, 2010 - 11:02 PM

                              Checked the book, most certainly him! There is another of him which I would say was done when he was a year or two younger done by a painter by the name of Santi di Tito but, there does'nt seem to be an online example. You would however, I think Noel, really like the ruff he is wearing but, just for you check this one out:
                              www.kressfoundation.org/collec...on.aspx
                              click on the "image" link and it will bring up a separate box where you can zoom in to your hearts content :)
                    • Re: Extant Partlets??

                      Tue, May 11, 2010 - 10:21 AM
                      Thanks so much for posting them, Pax! Yay. :)
                      • Re: Extant Partlets??

                        Wed, May 12, 2010 - 5:51 PM
                        Pax, the link to the Kress Foundation is fantastic, thank you!!! (Also the Palazzo Pitti ceiling frescoes, I'd forgotten how lovely they are.)
                        • Re: Extant Partlets??

                          Thu, May 13, 2010 - 6:59 AM
                          OMG!!!!! Dr. E said it all. That site is FANTASTIC!!!! I couldn't get it to pop up yesterday at home and I just looked at the office this a.m. and I know I'm going to get nooooo work done. Damn your eyes.

                          ALL OTHERS: CHECK OUT PAX'S EXCELLENT FIND!
                          • Re: Extant Partlets??

                            Thu, May 13, 2010 - 2:26 PM
                            What browser are you all looking at it from, because I can't get Safari to do anything other than get that tiny preview image.
                            • Re: Extant Partlets??

                              Thu, May 13, 2010 - 3:30 PM

                              Kimiko -

                              There are two links on the page I posted the first one says "preview" and immediately below it is another one that says "image" click on the image button and a pop up window will open with a larger image within as well as the ability to zooooooooom into the painting :)
                              • Re: Extant Partlets??

                                Thu, May 13, 2010 - 3:50 PM
                                And that's the part that does absolutely NOTHING when I click on it except to refresh my page. I even tried to click on it with a command to open in another window, and then it asks me for a login account with password.

                                I think it is a browser thing, where my Safari browser isn't picking up a key component of however their site is setup. Are you using Exploder or something else.

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