Pinking and slashing ...

topic posted Sat, August 30, 2008 - 10:20 PM by  Adrienne
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Looking for some good online resources for pinking and slashing ... I am looking for examples, inspiration, design ideas blah blah blah

Anyone got a few good links to throw my way?

Thanks!
posted by:
Adrienne
Los Angeles
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  • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

    Sun, August 31, 2008 - 3:23 PM
    For period pinking tools, try this: www.greenmanforge.com/

    For inspiration, Ninya Mikhaila's site has a number of recreated garments using that technique
    www.kissthefrog.co.uk/sixteenth.html

    I've also done a few garments with that technique, using an exacto knife or rotary cutter.
    www.kimiko1.com/dressdiari.../index.html
    www.kimiko1.com/dressdiari.../index.html
    www.kimiko1.com/dressdiari.../index.html
    • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

      Sun, August 31, 2008 - 11:43 PM
      "For period pinking tools, try this: www.greenmanforge.com/"

      Those are really REALLY cool and I seriously want a complete set of every imaginable size... but if you don't want to spend the dough, go to a discount tool warehouse like Harbor Tools and buy a cheap set of bench chisels and a mallet. Much the same thing, ultimately. (It's what I did, though I have yet to go beyond test pieces as yet...)

      Oh, and don't forget why the slashes tend to be bias-cut... keeps 'em from fraying quite so much. There's an entire doublet pattern layout illustrated in Alcega where every piece in cut out on the bias. Doing that would allow one to do their cuts perpendicular to the eyeline and yet still keep cutting on the bias.

      Or you can take the period "cheat" and use gum arabic (or fray check) to bind the edges. I believe that there are some period cutwork garments showing residue of what some believe to be a binder on the edge fibers.
      • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

        Mon, September 1, 2008 - 10:01 AM
        Oooh, those are nice! When I (or rather my then boyfriend, Lloyd) started doing this, we had someone make us a chisel. It was initially for doing cuttes on a leather doublet, but it's just as good on any fabric.

        Chisels are so much better than an exacto or any other kind of knife where you have to draw the edge through the fabric, which stretches it. A straight sharp stamp down with a fine edge chisel gives you exactly the same length cutte or pink every time, and you're never cutting "blind".
        • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

          Mon, September 1, 2008 - 10:22 AM
          I've been using the chisels for David's doublet, and it's coming out great/ I marked the lines on the back with tailor's chalk, then cut the cuttes on the vertical and the slashes on the bias. The cuttes were about 1/2" and the slashes about 1 1/4". (The oxford silk doesn't seem interested in fraying; in fact, the cuttes aren't even as visible as I would like them to be.) Then I sewed the rust lining pieces to the back of each pattern piece, then sewed the fingerloop braid lines to the top between the main lines of cuttes and of slashes. I will try to post a picture later today.
          • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

            Tue, September 16, 2008 - 10:48 AM
            I wasn't able to find good chisels when doing my pinking so I just used a flat blade exacto knife. It's shaped straight across, not angled like the regular exacto. I also used leather chisels, punches & stamps.

            I started a page on my pinking and fabric stamping experiments but it doesn't include chiseling, just punching & stamping... same techniques though. It's not finished but it might be useful. :-)
            www.alyxxndon.com/Alyxx/Fab...amping.htm
            • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

              Sun, September 21, 2008 - 4:30 PM
              Yes thank you! That is lovely work, and shows me that it CAN be done and look beautiful. i especially liked the stamping.
              • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

                Sun, September 21, 2008 - 7:11 PM
                I hadn't thought of trying to stamp fabric. I have stamped leather and silver, in the past, though. I suppose it comes of having a father who taught machine crafts for years.
                • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

                  Mon, September 22, 2008 - 4:37 PM
                  I'd seen period examples of fabric stamping and really wanted to try it. Then the Tudor Tailor came out and Ninya is always gracious about answering emails so I picked her brain a little about it as well.

                  The leather tools worked really well for me, but the success really seems to depend on the fabric you're stamping, and the backing you're stamping against so the fibers can form around the stamp without tearing. I used saddle leather and it worked great, but I'm sure there are other things that will work. Ninya uses lead flashing, and I believe that's the period tool, but I didn't want to work with lead.
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                    Re: Pinking and slashing ...

                    Mon, September 22, 2008 - 5:25 PM
                    Saddle leather will take the stamp, itself, too, which could be a bonus. I can understand not wanting to work with lead. The Tudor Tailors do excellent work, but are much more into total reproduction than I am.
                    • Re: Pinking and slashing ...

                      Thu, September 25, 2008 - 12:00 PM
                      Yeah, the saddle leather does take the stamp as if the fabric was not in between them. That's what molds the threads. If the backing material doesn't indent very well you won't get a good form in your fabric.

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