A female merchant

topic posted Mon, October 26, 2009 - 6:16 PM by  Kimiko
Share/Save/Bookmark
Advertisement
Hi all,

I am trying to come up with info on what a mid-level merchant woman (specifically a tailor's wife) would be dressed as. From colors to styles, something suitable for mid-Elizabethan era, as my area tends to do either early Elizabeth or late Elizabeth so I want something suitable for both. I know court styles, and I know husbandman level (aka peasants), but the merchant level seems to elude me a little. When I think I've got something, it seems more appropriate for either court or for peasants. And I am hoping to have this very accurate to the info we know of the period, not just "ren-faire usual".

Thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.
posted by:
Kimiko
Fresno
Advertisement
Advertisement
  • Re: A female merchant

    Tue, October 27, 2009 - 1:08 PM
    This sounds like a good project and I think you'll achieve your goal nicely.

    The key is that it be simple, respectable and neatly made, without pretension or gaudiness. Its should speak well of her and her husband, indicate that she is a moral and principled person, and that, when seen in her husband's shop or in the public market, it represents her husband's virtues as well as her own, and serves as an example of her husband's tailoring skills.

    It can be fashionable, and in fact should be, but it should not be pretentious. It should show that she knows her place within her world, and
    fulfills her responsibility to it in a way that indicates her awareness and taste. Most importantly, it should never be immorally gaudy in a way that would speak ill of the wearer among her community, or discourage patronage at her husband's shop.

    Tailor's wives sometimes had to demonstrate great persistence. Consider the experience poor Margaret Gardyner, formerly Margaret Abraham, had to undergo just to get payment from one customer:

    "cxxix [1584, Trinity, Common Pleas. C.P. 40/1431/2141.] London, William Gardyner, esquire, and Margaret his wife, executrix of the will of Frement Abraham, against William Kete of London, gentleman.

    The paintiffs said by Henry Burr their attorney that between 28 July 1572 and 5 April 1577 William Skete bought of the said Abraham black kersey, black cotton, linen called 'double Harford,' white fustian, brown canvas, russet fustian, double mockado, a pair of purple stockings, black double baize, two white canvas doublets, black mockado, two 'pair of paneled hose,' a pair of stockings, a brown canvas doublet, and a pair of kersey hose, to the total value of L14 9s. He was asked to pay by the said Abraham, and by the said Margaret while she was a widow, and by William Gardyner and the said Margaret after her marriage with him, but has never discharged the debt. It was considered that the plaintiffs should recover the debt with 40s. damages."

    In regards to the clothing itself, consider a fitted English gown worn over a kirtle. It is very simple and very upright. The option for a red kirtle is sound here and the gown can be any number of colors, from black to murrey or green or violet. Should you wish to use shirt sleeves on the gown, pinned under-sleeves can add another element of detail. A black or white partlet, and cap, sets it all off. A modest ruff is appropriate, indicating your public presentability and possibly your own skills in making linen garments.

    An example of such a set, worn as representing a tailor's wife (imagine that) suitable for your period is here:

    www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleri...69-2.htm

    A slightly later but just as elegantly simple example is here:

    www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleri...590s.htm

    I would strongly recommend avoiding cheap trim, matching hats and hanging sleeves. It is better to use no trim at all, or respectable modest velvet trim, rather than get gaudy with ribbon or corded loops. The same applies for hanging sleeves, which strike me as the ultra-ism. I don't think you would ever consider these things, thankfully.

    Regarding purple, the court case mentioned above includes purple stockings. I've also found a purple jerkin. My research is for men's clothing, but TT remarks on page 41 that "shades of violet could be produced with mixtures of madder and woad, which allowed humble people to own garments of this colour. There are 29 examples in the Essex wills."

    Have fun!

    H




    • Re: A female merchant

      Tue, October 27, 2009 - 2:00 PM
      Oops, I meant to say "short sleeves" for a gown instead of "shirt sleeves" and the third paragraph was split into two. Tribe's anti-editing function is not very helpful here.

      A loose gown would be a fine alternate to the fitted English gown, similar to the one in PoF on p. 109. An English example is in TT on p. 21.

      Cheers,

      H
    • Re: A female merchant

      Tue, October 27, 2009 - 3:51 PM
      Thank you Howard for this excellent commentary and suggestion. I have a DVD of Kentwell Hall that shows Ninya as the tailor woman, and somehow missed that this was the outfit she was wearing, as most I saw was her fine yet simple ruff, and her black gown.

      And thanks for your comments on purple. Maybe if I went more violet, and less the obvious dark & royal purple, people at faires will have less of an issue with a non-monarch wearing the dreaded "purple" at faire. I sometimes think we get too carried away with that proscription. In fact, I am tempted to make color swatches of woad and indigo wool, just to see what shades can come of the combo. But that will take some further research into period dyeing methods as well.
      • Re: A female merchant

        Tue, October 27, 2009 - 4:02 PM
        www.renaissancedyeing.com/store...cards/

        Or you could just buy this and I could give you the numbers that represent period-appropriate dyes. I was given my list by the ladies at this company, who I trust know their business since they work for a variety of museums in making period-correct replacement fibers for historical treasures (like the Bayeux Tapestry).

        www.renaissancedyeing.com/store...range/
        • Re: A female merchant

          Tue, October 27, 2009 - 4:38 PM
          Does the sample card tell you which dyes went into making each color? That's what I want to know. But I should get the card sample for the other color ranges as well.

          Now if only they did this in silk colors as well as the wool.
          • Re: A female merchant

            Tue, October 27, 2009 - 7:03 PM
            I have been thinking that as well (that they should make these in silk too). They don't describe the dyes, but I think we could finagle that information out of them (since they did offer to send it to me once, and they got distracted and never got back to it). These are SO super handy to have around when fabric shopping!
            • Re: A female merchant

              Tue, October 27, 2009 - 7:17 PM
              Krillgar, I'm so glad you posted that. That's the new name of company which is listed in TT on page 42, with the yarn samples. Also, Kimiko, if you look on page 47 of TT, two of the laundresses look look they're wearing mauve/cassis/violet. Check it out!
              • Re: A female merchant

                Tue, October 27, 2009 - 7:35 PM
                Thank you Noel, I know about the purple/violet laundresses, and it is part of why I want to do something in the purple range in wool (but not the deep royal purple silks or anything obviously noble in quality). See my comment on purple in the Snobs tribe. But the old theatrical rule of "No Purple" unless you are the monarch seems to remain a strong hold, even tho we are better educated now.

                Now if we could show the range of purples that can be made from basic available dyes of the period, it might help change minds. I would like to be armed with appropriate swatches, and at least try to educate folks on the color range that would have been available. Especially as I am learning about how expensive things dyed "in grain" or with kermes and orchil really got, and I am finding out that at least among the Italian dyers, colors like dark blue or blue-violet was almost as expensive and in great demand among the wealthy. Yet Henry only had a couple of blue items... which makes me wonder why (the expense? lack of interest in the color? better to show off wealth with the preferred "in grain"/kermes dyed fabrics? something else?).

                But that's digressing from just trying to come up with a good merchant class outfit that I can use as a base. Which I think Howard has helped nail things for me... and made me ponder even a bit more on other options. Like could or would a merchant tailor have sleeves of damask or not? I think I need to get back into reading that sumptuary list again.
    • Re: A female merchant

      Tue, October 27, 2009 - 8:09 PM
      Well... this is interesting. I've been wandering through the Elizabethan sumptuary laws, and found confusing info on if velvet welts, like Ninya's outfit is shown, would or would not have been allowed.
      www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleri...69-2.htm

      "Satin, damask, or tufted taffeta in gowns, kirtles, or velvet in kirtles; fur whereof the kind groweth not within the Queen's dominions, except foins, grey genets, bodge, and wolf: except the degrees and persons above mentioned, or the wives of those that may dispend £100 by the year and so valued in the subsidy book."

      "No persons under the degrees above specified shall wear any guard or welt of silk upon any petticoat, cloak, or safeguard."

      Isn't velvet considered a silk? So, does this mean velvet welts would not be allowed on gown and kirtles? My mind is having a time wrapping around Elizabethan statements like this right now.

      Then you add in " Note that her majesty's meaning is not, by this order, to forbid in any person the wearing of silk buttons, the facing of coats, cloaks, hats and caps, for comeliness only, with taffeta, velvet, or other silk, as is commonly used." Which begs me to ask... how is this commonly used?

      Oh, and the two sites I am getting the sumptuary laws are:
      elizabethan.org/sumptuary/...s-what.html
      www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/eliz...n.htm
      • Re: A female merchant

        Tue, October 27, 2009 - 9:23 PM
        I'm glad the info is helpful and I think you will make up a wonderful outfit.

        Purples are also commonly found among archeological textiles from Ireland and England in the early middle ages, although this is probably not relevant apart from similar madder/woad combinations.

        Sumptuary laws are interesting and always subject to a variety of interpretations. What was commanded and what actually happened are very different things, but contemporary documentation does make clear that ordinary people owned purple and violet hued clothing.

        In fact, going through my list, I just found another, a "violett" cloth cloak among things stolen in March, 1587 from a house in Essex. Its another man's garment, but at least gives a clear indication that violet along with purple were worn. The thing with all of the garments that i've found is that they are wool, not silk, and one would think that the laundresses depicted in TT are also wearing wool.

        As for the velvet guards, I think if she does it there must be some careful thought behind it. The other dress mentioned also includes a silk damask front to the kirtle, and it was worn to represent an upper level servant in a royal household.

        www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleri...590s.htm

        With both elements, the silk is worn in small amounts, the remainder of the clothing being very simple yet elegant in its design. I think the restraint is in part an interpretation of how middle class people employed a few high quality elements.

        Cheers
        H


        • Re: A female merchant

          Tue, October 27, 2009 - 11:20 PM
          "I think the restraint is in part an interpretation of how middle class people employed a few high quality elements. "

          Here I think is my rub. Besides the obvious fabrics that gentry and above wear, which can include finer quality wools, where do the merchant classes end, and the gentry classes begin? Even the 1590s outfit Ninya is wearing she works in a royal household, which is allowed in the sumptuary laws. And I think that you are right that what was commanded was different than what happened, as I recall it was the push by the wealthy merchants to wear clothes above their station that seemed to have a push back with more laws, over time of course.

          Then I am reading about those that may wear certain things because they have enough money....
          "or the wives of those that may dispend £100 by the year and so valued in the subsidy book."
          "and of such as may dispend 300 marks by the year so valued ut supra, and the wives of those that may dispend £40 by the year."
          But I don't fully understand what is being said there. Are they talking about those wives who are on pension, or who have such income levels from working? Or what exactly?

          On the sumptuary laws, I've got a possible lead from a friend of a friend who wrote about it as her thesis, so hopefully she will have greater insight. If so, I will post more on that.

          And thanks for the support for purple/violet colored clothing. Wool (probably worsted) was my initial idea, but I believe resistance is strong with regards to "purple" anything, which tends to lumps all the range of that color. I am currently getting the purple desire out of my system with my daughter's purple fairy costume, so I may do something else color-wise, or may try with just a pair of sleeves or something simple to start.
          • Re: A female merchant

            Wed, October 28, 2009 - 10:56 AM
            "Isn't velvet considered a silk? So, does this mean velvet welts would not be allowed on gown and kirtles? My mind is having a time wrapping around Elizabethan statements like this right now. "

            Why is velvet considered a silk? My understanding (via Katherine Barich's research on fabric terms and blends) was that velvet is simply a weave, and that it was (and is) executed in fibers other than silk.

            "....with taffeta, velvet, or other silk, as is commonly used."

            I take this to mean taffeta (made of silk), velvet (made of silk) or other (fabrics made of) silk; not taffet/velvet = silk.

            From Katherine's research into German fabric terms: BUBENSAMMAT, PELZSAMMAT, TRIPPSAMMAT (Medium to High quality wool, linen, cotton or a blend of these woven as velvet)
            • Re: A female merchant

              Wed, October 28, 2009 - 11:21 AM
              I think one of the reasons that Faires make such a fuss about purple is theatrical. Of course people wore purple. With only natural dyes available, they would wear whatever colors they could create. But if a specific dye that made something loosely purple was reserved for royalty, then this is theatrically demonstrated now by allowing purple only to royalty. It's overkill, it's not historical, it's theatrical.
              • Re: A female merchant

                Wed, October 28, 2009 - 11:32 AM
                I know, it is theatrical, but I've seen it abused over and over, where we make comments to girls wearing purple t-shirts... "oh, you must be a princess, because you are wearing the royal purple!" {choke} Or send folks to the stocks for a drubbing because they are wearing purple. Bad theatrical choice in my current opinion. It makes people think no one but the monarch is allowed to wear purple. Rather like when all the nobles are all dressed in black to make the Queen stand out in whatever color the Queen is wearing. That was another theatrical decision. So, how do you respond when a merchant is all in black? Or a goth kid? And yes, I've seen that response to a goth kid... oh, you must be a nobleman, as you are wearing all black! {shakes head}
            • Re: A female merchant

              Wed, October 28, 2009 - 11:37 AM
              Now that my mind is awake again...

              The velvet issue was what I was wondering, as I know there are linen and wool velvets available, so I presume those were useable as trim, but a silk velvet was not. But in today's world, where most people use cotton for their velvets, is a velvet trim made from cotton pushing that sumptuary boundary?

              And because it was brought up on a mailing list... what about guimpes? Were those ever used as trim, or is that a modern faire-ism as a way to use what we can find in a fabric store as trimmings, when we should be sticking to fabrics and hand woven trims like fingerloop or card woven braids? Or is that another topic?
              • Re: A female merchant

                Thu, October 29, 2009 - 7:28 PM
                Sumptuary laws can be confusing and were probably confusing then. Its easy to box one's self in, too.

                For the moment, it might be a good idea not to get too wrapped up in all that. Focus instead on the garments themselves - what kind of kirtle, for example, whether a fitted English gown or loose gown is to your liking, whether you would like one type of sleeve or another, what color wool and so on. The answers to the trimming - or whether you even wish to use trimming at all - will come in time.

                H

                • Re: A female merchant

                  Thu, October 29, 2009 - 8:57 PM
                  Thank you Howard for reminding me to stick to the basics. I sometimes, no, often get distracted by shiny tangents... oh, look, there's purple satin trim! :-D

                  Also, as I was reminded when reading Maggie's excellent article, even the folks of that time period ignored the statutes as well, as there were recorded complaints of a lack of enforcement.

                  I'm pondering a fitted and lightly boned kirtle of red wool flannel, or yellow herringbone silk (which looks more like wool and isn't shiny, but is a lighter weight, unlike most herringbone wools I've felt which usually feel coat weight). I have a length of wool worsted that should make into a nice fitted gown. I like loose gowns to a point, but want something more fitted. I may push the purple issue with a pair of sleeves if I can find a good wool in purple, otherwise, the sleeves will match the kirtle to start. I am pondering getting the proper tools for pinking them, as I believe the Tudor Tailor web site as a link to a craftsman who makes them. But that is a hearty investment. I have the linen for a basic ruff and already have the high necked smock planned. I am not sure what to do for a head covering, other than a basic and unfancy French hood. I'd prefer a nice coif and some sort of hat.

                  After Halloween is done, I will have time to sketch out my ideas, and go from there. I will post later as things progress.

                  Thanks again.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: A female merchant

                    Mon, November 2, 2009 - 9:02 PM
                    Your ponderings are looking good, Kimiko, and there are several very nice options here.

                    The red wool flannel kirtle would be very appropo, especially if you want to speak to the lives of so many women who lived at that time. With over 80 percent of Essex women wearing them, red must have been a very familiar aspect of their lives and daily dress. Yellow along with cream would also be appropriate, indicating the aspirations towards respectability within their station.

                    Matching sleeves with a light colored kirtle would be very elegant, draw on the upper class example in PoF and TT, and appropriate for Sunday and dress wear. Alternate contrasting sleeves in pearl grey, fawn or violet wool would give variation and be very practical for an everyday aspect.

                    Plain and twill weaves are the most common, and I don't think I've come across herringbone in a 16th c context. It seems to be so rare that it would be best avoided.

                    The good news is that nearly all fabrics in the era were lighter than generally thought. Woolen garments were most often made of finely woven materials available to a wide range of society, especially the wife of a tailor. Happily there are several sources for lighter weight wools, such as W. Booth, Draper or Burnley & Trowbridge. You can be both comfortable and authentic, which is a nice combination.

                    A coif or linen cap is best, and a base for a hat if you choose one. But look at the image of middle class women in TT and you will see a strong contrast between the middle class women and the fishmonger's wife just a rung or two lower. The fishmonger's and farmer's wife needed wide brims to protect herself while working outside. A cap alone would be completely fine for a woman living above her husband's tailor shop, who would go to market or church but not to the hayfields or to the sea.

                    The linen doublet in my photo section is a good example of the simple yet respectable clothing worn by the middle class. It is very plain, neatly and economically made, and shows how humble materials could be made into subtle and elegant garments. Its also extremely rare, for almost none of them survive, this one only by lucky accident.

                    Cheers
                    H

Recent topics in "Elizabethan Clothing"

Topic Author Replies Last Post
OT related era Carol 8 November 18, 2009
Ruffs: excuses and explanations Carol 57 November 9, 2009
Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead - Film Version 1990 Frecklehead 3 November 5, 2009
Ren Faire research help? offlineEmily 0 October 28, 2009
more substantial eyelets/grommets? Unsubscribed 11 October 26, 2009