I am re-thinking how I am attaching sleeves to garments this summer. There was a thread about this last year:
tribes.tribe.net/elizabeth...7d34aeea0c
but it never seemed to answer the question, what was the *period* method of doing this? I would like to use points attached to the sleeve, ties through eyelets hidden under the shoulders, but is there any documentation for this?
Here are my druthers:
I like detachable sleeves, easier to change them as the occasion requires and the aeration is nice.
This would be for both men's doublets and women's bodices.
Variables:
eyelets or rings?
how many per sleeve?
just around the top, or down around the rest of the back of the armscye?
under the cap sleeve/peccadils or back under the shoulder proper?
on a placket, or right through the garment (if eyelets on the shoulder proper?
tribes.tribe.net/elizabeth...7d34aeea0c
but it never seemed to answer the question, what was the *period* method of doing this? I would like to use points attached to the sleeve, ties through eyelets hidden under the shoulders, but is there any documentation for this?
Here are my druthers:
I like detachable sleeves, easier to change them as the occasion requires and the aeration is nice.
This would be for both men's doublets and women's bodices.
Variables:
eyelets or rings?
how many per sleeve?
just around the top, or down around the rest of the back of the armscye?
under the cap sleeve/peccadils or back under the shoulder proper?
on a placket, or right through the garment (if eyelets on the shoulder proper?
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Thu, June 19, 2008 - 6:07 PMI usually do 2 rings about an inch away from the crest of the shoulder on the front side and back side respectively, and then about 2 inches dwon from those and call it good. In Janet Arnold's patterns Of Fashion there are doublets that have lace on sleeves that a strip with hand worked eyelet holes is sewn into the armsceye of the doublet just under the wing with corresponding lacing holes worked into the head of the sleeve...thats getting a bit aggressively perio-o-centric unless you really wanna go whole hog....in which case rock on!
I find it easier to have the ties stitched to the sleeve and feed them through the rings in the doublet.....they seem to come untied less frequently that way than when the rings are in the sleeve and the tie is stitched into the doublet....no clue why...sure it has something to do with weight of sleeve+movement/friction=untieing....but I am not one of those "physics people" and just run with the imperical data without questioning it in this case...grins.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Thu, June 19, 2008 - 8:42 PMOK...similar line of questioning. How about fastening for open hanging sleeves? I've settled on using hooks & eyes, but the placement is confounding me. How far apart should they be spaced? And should I double up at the wrist?
Becky/Beatrix
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 8:47 AMHere's thing -
I've read about sleeves being simply pinned to the bodice at the shoulder, but maybe this is largely Italian or Flemish.
What's the likelihood that Elizabethans might have done the same?
Just in case, here are some pins that could be period-passable -
jas-townsend.com/product_info.php
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 9:00 AMAs Joel says, the period method was a lacing strip inside both the top edge of the sleeve and the armshole, (see Janet Arnold) but I've never had the patience for that. I use hooks/eyes so tthere's nothing to show. It also allows you to use simple stuffed no shoulder treatment at all and make it look as if the sleeve is sewn in. Hooks go on the sleeve, and round-type eyes go in the armhole. I use either 5 or 7 pairs, starting with 1 at the center top, then 2" or 2.5" apart down the front and back. Don't use the big coat hooks/eyes, of course, or they'll lift right out. They go on (and come off) so fast, they're a total dream, and they're utterly invisible. Yes this is for both men and women.
When I used ribbon points, it was pretty much what you desccribed. I doubled an 18" length of 1/4" grosgrain ribbon (giving a pair of 9" ties, with aiglets) anchored to the sleeve head, that laced through a ribbon loop in the armhole. Still 2" or 2.5" apart. Tied up nicely into a demure little bow that mostly you couldn't see at all. And when the sleeves were off, you couldn't see the loops.
Mind you, in this weather (supposed to be 110 today) all this sewing talk is just theoretical. I can hardly bear to look at fabric in the summer, much less sit down in the hottest corner of the apartment to sew. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 10:58 AM"It also allows you to use simple stuffed no shoulder treatment at all "
A what? Tsk, editing... a stuffed roll or no shoulder treatment at all, which you can't do if you need to hide lacing loops or rings or whatever.
The other typoes will have to take care of themselves.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 1:23 PMWhat size hooks and eyes do you use? And for ribbon, what kind of ribbon have you found stays tied the best?
-I'm with you on sewing in the heat - that's why I'm designing right now! ;-) -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 1:33 PMI think the Dritz hook/eye package says they're size 2 or something. I'll have to check at home.
The only ribbon that's worth anything for points is grosgrain. When I'm doing these, I sit down with my 18" lengths and a lighted votive candle, and one by one hover the cut ends (always cut at an angle) over the candle flame. Because they're all poly, of course, it melts a little which seals the edge. You don't need to set them on fire, just hold them over the heat. Then it's easy to sew on whatever aiglets you use. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:01 PMWhere can I find the D rings? I looked a JoAnn's on lunch & the smallest size they had was 3/4".
Becky/Beatrix -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:06 PMI don't bother with D rings...I just use the small little "o" rings that you can get in the home decor department for making roman shades out of...I use the plastic ones and just cover them with thread....when i have to pack things for air travel every little ounce I can decrease the weight of my checked baggage by is important......so metal lacing rings would certainly b more period...but I do make concessions to modern necessities. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 7:36 AMI go to the Warm Windows display at JoAnn's (back by the upholstery fabrics) and buy the little metal rings there. $3.99 for a pack of forty. They are a nice, workable size, and probably weigh less than plastic rings covered with thread.
I use them as lacing rings on kirtles as well. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 9:54 AMI purchase brass rings from www.renaissancefabrics.net/ at 20 per package $1. Nice seamless rings.
I can't make hand bound eyelets (tried and tried) but recently made a buttonhole eyelet band for pointing a petticote to a skirt and shoulder bands for pointing sleeves. I used cotton duck, evenly spaced five button holes then bound the bands.Whip stitched them securely under the shouldr straps of the bodice. The test will be during the first wearing next weekend at the Greenwood Faire in Tri Cities.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 6:37 AMBecky,
Jay got me some gold rings out of Fire Mountain Gems catalog that will actually let my aiglets go through them.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 8:42 AMAnd seriously, ribbon loops are so much more secure than rings and totally invisible besides. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 8:46 AMHas anyone tried lucet cord rings and points? -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 9:51 AMI think that might be too stretchy.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 9:56 AM"Has anyone tried lucet cord rings and points? "
I have Rebecca. It works just fine. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 4:01 PMLucet cord RINGS???
I've been playing around with the lucet, and have made some decent cord as practice, but I didn't know one can make rings out of them. How? Is there a site for this type of lucet cord ring??? Please, let us know. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 4:23 PMSorry, what I meant was loops - e.g. a regular cord, stitched onto the fabric in loops. Although... you could certainly use a needle to thread the original loose end through the other end's loops to make a ring. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 11:21 AMWhat I want to know is, can I permanently attach my sleeves to my doublet? Was it done? I NEVER remove my sleeves, so there's no need to make it possible, except to change them out. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 11:46 AMAs far as I can see, Janet Arnold shows examples of each - both tied on (with eyelet holes and points) AND sewn in.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 11:48 AMfire away Rydell, i have done both styles. There doesn't seem to be any consistent class distinction or styl that pre-determines set in or detachable it really seems to be the whim of the wearer.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 12:46 PMBy all means, sew them in. As I mentioned before, I think hand sewing in sleeves was an option that we rarely discuss, as I've found them quick to do up with hand sewing, and quick to take out if needed, without much harm to the sleeves (which need to be finished somehow, like a bound edge). It is also what I do if I am too pressed for time to do all of the eyelets before an event.
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This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.
Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 12:46 PMOh, ok. That is an idea. Thanks. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 12:58 PMJust a note, it might be cooler in the summer to tie them on even if you never remove them. Even small gaps at the shoulder seam might be providing a little helpful ventilation out there in the California sunshine. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 1:50 PMThose lacing strips in Janet Arnold seem to close the arm pretty much all the way around, others are apparently sewn in--although I sometimes wonder about anything found in a grave. Might they have stitched pieces together that would otherwise have been tied, just to keep them from shifting when laying out the body? No way of knowing for sure, of course.
However, I think the gap under the arm is a Good Thing, if only for ventilation. If you sewed them in all the way around, after years of having them detachable, you might very well notice the difference over the course of a day. The cut of the armseye/sleeve head, too, might be a factor. You'll probably lose some mobility/flexibility. Not that you'll be doing manual labor in a court suit. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sun, June 22, 2008 - 5:01 PMNoel woofing in.
My two court suits always had sewn-in sleeves (due to lack of skill and ignorance on my part) and I agree that a gap, of any sort, would be a desireable addition. If for no other reason than to keep a rather expensive suit from getting "pitted," which is how the hubster used to refer to old dresses, etc., from the 30s which would rot out from the armpits before the body fabric was compromised. He was in the rag trade when we first met, and that was a common flaw in vintage stuff which a purposefully-placed gap might help to avoid.
Sure would beat dress shields.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Mon, June 23, 2008 - 12:23 PMI have an ongoing experiment with variations on points: hsifeng.livejournal.com/tag/points
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Mon, June 30, 2008 - 6:33 PMIf you are a noble the best I've found for tying on sleeves is velvet cording. It stays tied until you decidse to undue it. Just don't use vewlvet if you will be doing anything throughout the day that will require you to take your sleeves on and off. I knew someone that did this, but every time he had to do swordwork he had to spend way too long on his sleeves.
to hide the ends I used bead caps w/ a cylindrical shape w/ a hanging pearl at the end, very pretty.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited - multiple sleeves
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 1:29 PMA related question, as long as I have all my experts handy -
How do multiple sleeves work? By this, I mean when there appear to be more than one torso garment such as a doublet and a jerkin (which might each have their own shoulder treatment) or a doublet and second coat (such as the gorgeous one at tribes.tribe.net/elizabeth...050a9feda) -
how do you handle all the bulk?
and would both sets of sleeves have to be sewn in, or what? -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited - multiple sleeves
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 1:34 PMBecky that link is to the photos page. Which gorgeous one in particular did you mean?
Oh wait, that's because the close paren got caught in the link. The Italian "Tall Man"? I don't know that the white doublet has sleeves under the red ones. They look pretty tight.
When there is an oversleeve that's never going to be closed, I'd just sew it right to the doublet. You put on the under doublet with its sleeves, then the over-garment over it and one sleeve just fits through the other.
Joel probably has a better answer. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited - multiple sleeves
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:04 PMnope...same answer as you Maggie...but thankyou for the implied compliment! So looking forward to getting a copy of the elizabethan compendium and basking in the glory of your hard efforts!
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:29 PMSo, I don't mean to nitpick... much.
But just because there's no extant (or otherwise) evidence to the contrary, does all of the above mean that the English *never* used pins to attach sleeves? -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:38 PMthe pinning on of sleeves that I have seen is an earlier thing...as in early early tudor and lower class not upper class. it would really only work effectively on lower class garmens because you'd have to use a metrick F*&%-ton of pins to hold some of those upper class elaborately over worked and occasionally wadded and stuffed sleeves onto a bodice....better to point them on than try pinning. Keep in mind, pins were not a cheep thing either...we look at them as a throw away comodity these days because the means of production is so simplistic and a pack of them is like 2 bucks for 200 pins. In period they were considerably harder to make than they are now, so they were considerably more expensive then than they are now...and as such only going to be used to pin things to you that you knew were not likly to get yanked off by their weight and thus potentially loose you a pin into the bargain. Even the little things then had a much different comodity value owing to means of production that needs to be taken into account.
so long winded answer is...in my opinion ( based on everything I have seen in writing ) No...the english were not on the whole in the habit of pinning their sleeves onto their garments by the elizabethan period. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:45 PM"But just because there's no extant (or otherwise) evidence to the contrary, does all of the above mean that the English *never* used pins to attach sleeves?"
By the same thinking I could presume the Elizabethans frequently wore badgers on their heads in spite of the fact that there is no evidence for it. They had access to badgers, didn't they?
One can only be sure of something for which one has ample evidence or reason to suppose. However, I do recall somebody saying in another thread or tribe that it was fairly common to pin sleeves on. I'll leave it to somebody else to find it and cite the sources because I'm feeling lazy. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 2:56 PMOh, good, because I was planning to make at least one pair of sleeves out of badgers. Live ones.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 3:03 PMJeez, Ry.
Hard Friday ?
I know at least a thing. Maybe a thing and a half.
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 5:20 PMRydell, shall we pin those badgers to your hat and light them on fire? -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 5:31 PM<sings>
Flaming Badgers on my Head
Stripey, Toothy, not quite Dead
C'mon dear, it's time for Bed
with a falalala falalala didido -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Sat, June 21, 2008 - 10:01 AMI still giggle today over this little ditty
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 3:02 PMAnd such is why I did raise the question.
I'm well aware of the dearness of pins. I know what it took to make them.
I won't argue, but I don't see why it would be unfathomable for the unwashed (such as I portray) to use pins.
That's all. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 3:08 PMNot unfathomable, but if there's no evidence, you just don't know that they did. One is free to speculate, of course, but if something was common, it should be easy to find.
The occasions where we see a sleeve pinned on, it's a single pin and a plain straight sleeve. No reason why working women wouldn't keep doing that, but the more elaborate the sleeve, the more necessary points become, as Rydell said. And I'd feel uncomfortable saying "they did a thing" if I couldn't show any evidence of it. -
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Re: Tying one on, e.g. sleeves, revisited
Fri, June 20, 2008 - 3:37 PMNuthin' personal intended. I've spent too much time setting people straight - my knee jerked.
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