<<Can anyone point me to a painting or other source for these padded roll hoods or does anyone know the origin of this hat appearing in the Winter and Savoy book? >>

Just a word to the wise. As one of the folks around at the time the book was written, I can personally attest to the fact that a lot of the things that appear in the book are documentation of what was done at Faires in the mid-70s.

When I get home I'll try to fish out my copy, but I'd be willing to bet that if no one can find an historical example of what's depicted in the book, it's probably a rendering of what someone was doing at the Faires at the time. It's sort of a circular logic thing.

The whole section on ruffs and ruff making is a good example of this. Among other things.

Thanks Alyxx,

Just to be clear, the padded role I speak of is not part of some underneath support (as I would assume the braided hair was) but replaces the crescent shape that stands up (or doesn't depending on the painting you are looking at) and it has jeweles sewn to it where you would expect billiments on a more typical french hood.

A couple of folks swear that some of the background court ladies in "Elizabeth R" are wearing this very hat in a few scenes...

Vel

Thank you, Alyxx. :-)
I have no problem with my site being shared. That's what it is for.

"eeewww, Winter and Savoy. "

Hi Michelle,

In defense of said, these ladies were just trying to help folks who had no idea what to do or what was needed for period costuming at that time.

Their publication was all there was for a long time and many were and are grateful for it.
So please don't belittle their efforts.

Thanks,
Valerie

HI Michele,

I have posted a scan of the page in question which shows two variations of this hat along with the instructions for making it.

thanks,
Vel

"Kimiko could correct me but I was under the impression that the crescent *is* the French hood...? The hood part is the tube of fabric that hangs down and the French part is the crescent-ish hat that curves down over the ears and holds the hood on...
I know that must be oversimplified, but I can't even imagine a French hood with some sort of padded roll... "

From the evolution of the hoods... they start with just the black "hood" portion of one shape or another. The black hood has a lining of some color (mostly reddish, probably silk), which when flipped back gets shown off, along with the white coif. Sometimes the colored lining is not seen in the hood. The jeweled billiments get added. Eventually the colored lining becomes the part I think is known as the paste (but that's a confusing issue of terms), and eventually the French hood gets its final form. I am working on figuring out the steps exactly of when/how this occurs for a class I will be teaching on Henrician hoods. So, it's kinda flowing from my mind right now into written words, so I may change my mind on things later.

And definitely no roll that I've seen yet. Billament jewels (including some goldwork that stand up tall), coif, the gold goffered part on the coif, and black hood, worn over hair in a braid over the top of the head (most likely), but no rolls.

Kimiko, what about this painting? Looks like a roll, at least it doesn't cover the ears like a french hood.
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ulen.jpg

Meaning a blazo