Margo Anderson definitely has good directions. I have the Lady's and Gentleman's Wardrobe, as well as the Accessories and Comfort Patterns.

Margo's patterns read more like the big pattern companies.

I have tried Kass's patterns for other eras and liked them.

Just so you know up front... I am biased, since I work with Margo on the research for the upcoming Tudor pattern set. Stating that, let's see if I can tell you what I know about both companies from my experience with their patterns.

Margo's set has a lot more instructions, step by step with lots of images. You will get a manual of instructions and suggestions, including sewing tips, info on trims, fabrics, and other pertinent info. That can be important to some people. Also, you get the whole garment in one package, which can include multiple styles, like a variety of sleeve types - all in one package. Margo discusses how to fit the pattern to the individual person, in step by step method. The patterns are printed onto tissue, so it is suggested you trace off the sizes you need to keep the pattern whole. Reason for this is because each package is complete. If she were to print onto printer paper, it would weigh a lot, and really up the price of shipping. She also ships multiple patterns for one price (as many as she can fit into the USPS Priority Mail box). I usually suggest Margo's for anyone from beginner to advanced, mainly for the help with fitting she provides.

I've also used RH/Kass' patterns for other eras. Her sizes run to actual size, minimal to no ease added, so if you want wearing ease, you cut and fit to the size you want, not the size as given (one thing I wish I had known when I first made up her pattern). Her instructions are mostly text with a few drawings and is usually complete. I had one problem with missing info, but a quick email to Kass and she sent me the proper instructions for that part. She includes fabric suggestions, historical info on what the originals looked like (or whatever her sources), and hand sewing instructions, too. Her patterns are on printer paper which she prints from her own home on a high speed printer. This also means that you buy each garment piece you want, so if you want a doublet and a pair of breeches, you buy two separate patterns. I usually recommend RH for intermediate to advanced sewers, mainly because RH does not discuss how to make the pattern fit the individual person - so a seamstress must know how to modify the pattern to fit individual people.

Both have historical info in their write up. I don't have Kass' pattern for anything Elizabethan, so I can't say what info one covers that the other does not. Both have mailing lists to help support their products. Both respond to emails for any problems that occur. Neither pattern set is perfect, and both seem to be willing to improve their products as best they can within their limits.

I have used both patterns and have no particular ties or beef with either. For my husband's outfit (see people.tribe.net/dba5bbbf-...60b089c38) I used Margo's. I had to adjust the front line, front waist and the length for his belly - a natural peascod! But otherwise, it worked well, and I used a combination of Margo's and Janet Arnold for David's jerkin and paned trunkhose (in the same album - the green/rust ones).

I have never had any pattern I could use without some adjustment for any of the garments I've made, so I always measure and adjust and make a muslin mockup, especially for bodices and doublets. The less experienced you are with a particular pattern, the more important that is. One thing Margo hasn't always included is arrows on the pattern pieces for grain. Her patterns are historically correct as far as I can see, as are RH.

Hi Bess,

If you'd like to get a more historically accurate pattern for breeches, why not use patterns from original pairs? This gives you a pattern which was drafted the correct way, and in the original period. Its no more difficult than a modern one, and perhaps even a bit easier.

Janet Arnold's book Patterns of Fashion, The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c. 1560-1620 gives several patterns for breeches of various types, along with doublets and jerkins. For the price of the book, you get tons of patterns.

A pair of breeches appropriate to the late Elizabethan period, and from a man similar to modern sized men, are on pages 74-75. They are very simple and basically consist of three parts per leg. An even simpler 1618 version is on page 89, which can be adapted if desired.

Gathered breeches like these were very common yet rarely seen in modern reconstructions. You might have a good time making them. They sure save a lot of effort over the paned versions.

If you are looking for paned hose, there is another pattern on page 54. Its extremely simple and allows modification easily. One note - paned breeches are stylistically representing their slashed ancestors, so the panes must therefore be butted up together. In fact, the Italian example in Arnold has the panes gathered at the waist, and the Moroni Tailor portrait shows the same detail.

Original tailors measured using strips of brown paper, and adjusted patterns - sometimes by eye - as they wished. You can do this at pleasure to suit your requirements in modifying a pattern. The originals were handsewn and all copies will require some degree of hand stitched details. However there are a number of places you can use a machine if you prefer.

When you make up a garment this way, you learn from the original pattern, and figure out methodology naturally. I've never had any difficulty doing this.

In regards to waist positions of doublets, it changes, sometimes by decade. However a general rule is that the late 16th c. waist is an inch below the ribcage. This is why its a good idea to use points attaching doublet to hose, creating in effect into a jumpsuit that stays together.

Hope this helps,

H