Elizabethan Clothing's topics - tribe.net

Ruffs: excuses and explanations

2009-11-09T22:15:22Z

We all love ruffs!!!! They are sooooo pretty and give SUCH a period look. Thanks to Noel, the Casa court and others (like St. George folks) got a fantastic, amazing, informative, entertaining workshop on how to block (that the right term?) ruffs. It was, however, probably a little late for folks to try making them for this season. We've all been encouraged to do so for the following season and we should all see tons of ruffs next year, I'd imagine! The enthusiasm is there, but not the time...
That said, I would love to see posts of photos of ruffs people have made...that possible here? Keep the motivation going?? Oh, and matching cuffs...swoon...

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 57 replies

Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead - Film Version 1990

2009-11-05T20:31:07Z

Anyone seen this? I was wondering if the shirts they are wearing are accurate for the Elizabethan period. The pointy collars make me think they are later than Elizabethan, what do you think?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 3 replies

A female merchant

2009-11-03T05:02:59Z

Hi all,

I am trying to come up with info on what a mid-level merchant woman (specifically a tailor's wife) would be dressed as. From colors to styles, something suitable for mid-Elizabethan era, as my area tends to do either early Elizabeth or late Elizabeth so I want something suitable for both. I know court styles, and I know husbandman level (aka peasants), but the merchant level seems to elude me a little. When I think I've got something, it seems more appropriate for either court or for peasants. And I am hoping to have this very accurate to the info we know of the period, not just "ren-faire usual".

Thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 27 replies

Ren Faire research help?

2009-10-29T04:03:26Z

Hello All-

My name is Emily. I'm a graduate student doing some research on themed environments, living history displays and historical reenacting. Specifically, I'm interested in the issue of historical accuracy and authenticity at Renaissance Faires. I would very, very much appreciate it if you would take a minute or two to answer a survey; I'm trying to supplement on-site interviews conducted at King Richard's Faire in Massachusetts with the various perspectives of Ren Faire enthusiasts from across the country. If you're interested (have I begged enough? Because I'm certainly not above groveling...) please email me and I'll send the survey to you posthaste.

Thank you in advance,
Emily

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

more substantial eyelets/grommets?

2009-10-27T00:27:04Z

I hate those stretchy Dritz eyelets/grommets!!! Does anyone have a good source for stronger 2-piece eyelets/grommets? I'm looking for some "silver" in colour that can go through both fabric (stretch velvet) and about 1/8" of leather. Internal diameter 1/8 to 1/4 inch. It's not Elizabethan-related, but you all are so knowledgeable, this is the first place I thought to come to ask.. thanks!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 11 replies

teensy bit OT Question about whale parts and extant garments

2009-10-26T02:02:42Z

So, who here has actually seen "whale bone" boning and would know it if you saw it?

Also when did we stop using animal bits for stays, either by scarcity or law or whate'er?

Reason being, I'm working with an outfit for a play that is very old and of unknown provenance, which is in the style of the first bustle period in the late 19th, and I'm trying to guess just how old this dress is.
Hints: the lining is super thin, had turned the color of a brown paper bag, it dry and flaky in places, shiny in places, and goes crunch when I sew it. The original consruction is entirely handsewn with later alterations and repairs by machine. The outer fabric is a lightweight gabardine which feels slighty scratchy and has selvadges that look like wool (I haven't a scrap to burn). The stays in the front (one poked out) are a dark flaky animal material that to me looks like horn, and is definitely not plastic. They are the width and twice the thickness of modern cable ties. The original thread is a bit darker brown than paper bag and a bit powdery with age, even though the gown is green.

Anybody got any knowledge that would help me date this dress? Like history of stay materials? It's not quite E-bethan, but here's where all the clothes experts are, ao I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Cheers!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 23 replies

Could this pattern be modified for a woman?

2009-10-22T14:18:09Z

I have made minor adjustments to patterns, but could this pattern be altered to fit a woman? I got it for a dollar, and for that price I'll give it a try if you excellent people think it's possible. I am tall, but pretty curvy, which will cause problems.... Has anyone used this pattern?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 8 replies

Findings: The Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing - by Mary Beaudry

2009-10-20T18:59:49Z

I believe that the topic of this book has come up on this list before. Having not read the item in question, I was happy to see a knowledgeable review of the book here:

http://togs-from-bogs.blogspot.com/2009/10/book-talk-mary-c-beaudry-findings.html?showComment=1255730294918#c9214046702722853303

Buyer beware...

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

Kunsthistorisches Museum - Miniature Portrait Gallery all shots

2009-10-19T23:30:46Z

Pictures from the 'portraits gallery' of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Yes, they are continental (although there is at least one shot of Liz in here so far!), but I love them anyway. I have seen images of this wall many times, but "racaire" is the first person I know who has taken the time to photograph ALL the minature images on this wall and then webbed those images for others to look through.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/racaire/3945891794/in/set-72157603342215251/?addedcomment=1#comment72157622494986286

Don't blame me if you spend the rest of the day scrolling through these!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 72 replies

slightly ot, thread

2009-10-02T22:16:30Z

I know thread ages, but was wondering if anyone had any idea at what point it should be tossed? I'm cleaning out my mother in laws sewing stuff (she passed away) and clearly I won't attempt to use thread on the wooden spools ;), but there's a lot of basic thread that's , oh 8 to 10 years old.

Should I just toss it?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 19 replies

Lacing

2009-09-29T18:44:11Z

I am making a lower class bodice, and need to know what to lace it with? Not grosgrain, I assume. Leather cord? Also, I used grommets (not the bright shiny ones, but still.....) should I cover them? It's not accurate is other ways (i.e. it has darts and bias tape) so should I even bother? I have the time and the ability. Thoughts?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 35 replies

Blue Doublets? (X-Post from Ren Faire History Snobs)

2009-09-25T12:55:28Z

Does anyone have any sources for blue doublets being worn by the lower and middle classes? A lighter shade of blue that could easily be obtained with woad and/or indigo to be specific.

I'm considering making a blue doublet, but having seen very few sources, I'll probably go a different direction.

Thus far, I've only found a small figure in one of John White's watercolors of Frobisher's journeys in the New World ( http://tinyurl.com/djp22g )
-The image is very small, I'd be eternally grateful if anyone has a larger copy- and some coats worn by peasants in Pieter Brughel the Elder's paintings.

Thank you!!!

-Dan

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 30 replies

fabric storage

2009-09-11T02:45:17Z

Hi. I need to corral some large pieces of fabric I'm glad I bought but won't use soon. Is there any problem with storing them in space storage bags?

Thanks.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 11 replies

Boycott Fashion Fabrics Club

2009-09-03T17:24:11Z

Placed an order for 30 yards of 3 different fabrics which didn't ship for 6 business days. Now, on their FAQs they say it takes 2-7 biz days to ship, but please, in this day and age, that's stupid. Ordered some buttons from the UK and they came the day the Fashion Fabrics Club email got to me saying they'd just shipped and that it would take another 7 days to reach me. When I got the order, it was only 2 of the 3 fabrics - no explanation on the packing slip why the third, one I need for a client, was missing. When I called, she said that in the FAQs it explains how the client is supposed to tell them if the client wants to be notified when a fabric is out of stock. What?! Are you kidding me?!!! So, two weeks later I'm still short 10 yards of wool gabardine when I could have headed out to JoAnn's.
I know their prices are good, but there are too many other brick-and-morter and online resources for that kind of business practice. Please boycott them if you can! Thanks.
Signed,
Frustrated Carol

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 16 replies

Reconstructing History, or Margo Anderson...

2009-08-26T17:06:22Z

My husband's in need of new breeches and possibly a doublet/jerkin for next season.

For his current breeches, I used and modified the pattern from McCall's which also has a doublet pattern, but I want to be more historically accurate this time around.

So, which pattern-smith is the best suited for a seamstress in need of clear instruction and ease of use?

I appreciate all input.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 22 replies

Color Images

2009-08-25T23:18:12Z

Hey All,

Just wandering around on the BSB (looking for German stuff, dontyaknow?) and stumbled into these. This is from a ‘costume book’ of foreign countries from around 1560-1570, early in the Queen reign. Take it with a grain of salt, but it is fun:

http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Blatt_bsb00010526,00038.html

The Italians: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Blatt_bsb00010526,00033.html
The Spanish: http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Blatt_bsb00010526,00021.html
The Scandinavians (dig those shoes!): http://mdzx.bib-bvb.de/codicon/Blatt_bsb00010526,00019.html

From another book which is the same manner of text:

The IRISH! (You can all kiss or curse me for these images):
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00011752/images/index.html?seite=90
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00011752/images/index.html?id=00011752&fip=205.155.151.30&no=&seite=91
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00011752/images/index.html?id=00011752&fip=205.155.151.30&no=1&seite=92
http://mdz10.bib-bvb.de/~db/0001/bsb00011752/images/index.html?id=00011752&fip=205.155.151.30&no=2&seite=93

~Cherylyn

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 17 replies

Black cotton velvet

2009-08-20T23:03:16Z

Do I pre-wash it? If so, how? etc.
I will be using it for piping trim, forepart guard, and a flat cap on a wool gown. I have washed the wool.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 17 replies

Dry cleaner and wig shop needed!

2009-08-08T06:36:12Z

Hi, y'all,
I'm looking for a reliable dry cleaner that is gentle with costumes in one of the following towns:
* Mountain View
* Redwood City
* Palo Alto
* Sunnyvale or
* San Mateo

Also, I'm in need of a good wig shop where they'll either clean and comb out some wigs for me or instruct me how to do it. Same cities.

Thanks!!!
Carol

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 1 reply

Pewter button source?

2009-07-28T23:59:23Z

Looking for an inexpensive, reliable online source for elizabethan -reign style pewter buttons?

Working on a black wool doublet and pewter would look so snazzy! Actually I'm just cutting out the fabric, the boyfriend is going to sew it up by hand. Aren't men who can sew just so sexy?

Mrrow.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 39 replies

Poly/cotton lacing

2009-07-25T07:08:49Z

Ok, how about this one: know of an online source that 1) carries flat poly/cotton lacing, 2) will sell you a gross quantity, and 3) has it in stock? Only place I could find that has the white in stock is Greenberg and Hammer, but they are out of stock on the black and that's what I need. I've tried Richard the Thread, the Corset Room (or whatever that is in Seattle) etc. None of them fit the 3 criteria.

Another question: I bought 100% cotton lacing in black and white by the spool from Greenberg and Hammer a couple of years ago and am having an awful time of it. It keeps breaking when I use it for corsets! The stuff is too soft, I suppose - thread twist not high enough. That's why I'm going for some poly content for clients. I've been using nylon for myself 'cause I just won't put up with stuff breaking. Want to offer clients a more authentic garment, but not at the expense of their getting caught at an event with a broken lace! Thoughts?!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 9 replies

Grommet/lacing tape

2009-07-23T20:18:55Z

Does anyone know where I can get (online) 1 3/8" black twill tape with grommets set 1" apart? Basically, lacing tape? Lacis carries, but was wondering if anyone knows of an online source cheaper than the $2/yard at Lacis. Some places have really expensive stuff ($11-17/yard!), but if Lacis is selling for $2 and I know they have a huge mark-up, where are they getting it from? The twill isn't really tightly woven, but for my purposes, it's just fine. Anybody?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

caveat emptor

2009-07-23T15:11:58Z

Let the buyer beware.
Just a reminder to never assume that descriptions of store or online fabrics are correct. I just purchased several swatches from fabric.com and fashionfabricsclub.com which were ALL specifically described as 100% wool. Several, according to my burn and bleach tests, contain other materials, and some have little wool content at all. Always check a swatch!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

Linen Sale

2009-07-21T16:29:34Z

http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=showarticles&menu=f&article=1&sa=1&printed=

Fabrics Store has put all their middle weight linen on sale at 15% off. Thought you might want to know.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

Beta Test duds are complete...

2009-07-18T04:03:48Z

http://tribes.tribe.net/elizabethan_clothing/photos/3e677d3f-ba2c-4653-8047-07a62bb5a8e4
I have posted some new pictures of my treatment of the Garzia deMedici suit of clothes treated with such intricacy by Janet Arnold in POF and photographed with amazing detail at 'Realm of Venus' (link below).

They were patterned in a manner faithful to this extent doublet & trunkhose in terms of seams, cut., piecing and especially the placement of the many, many eyelets. The doublet is almost entirely handwork, including embroidery. The buttons are handmade basket-woven linen thread over a wooden core as detailed on my "Doublet Diary" blog: http://garb4guys.blogspot.com/2008/02/buttoning-up-part-two.html

This suit was made to beta test the pattern and provide examples & fodder for period costume and construction discussions and will be shortly followed by a russet silk set that's a more exacting replication, to be made entirely by hand. I'll admit that I'm not looking forward to handsewing those panes for the trunkhosen, though, so I may well "allow" the hotrod to sew those for me depending on how my hands are feeling when that portion of the costuming comes up for completion.

I modified the line of the doublet's waist a bit to conform my my long-waisted torso and the colors I chose were inspired by Moroni's tailor and the book "1000 Years of Textiles". The trunkhose were made under deadline pressures (a wedding) so were constructed mostly on the machine.

I prototype and beta test all my patterns. This suit of clothes is the beta test.

Moroni's Unknown Tailor
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/Giovanni_Battista_Moroni_001.jpg

Extant Doublet & Trunkhose of Don Garzia @ Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extmenclo1.htm

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 19 replies

Cotton cording online?

2009-07-16T21:20:55Z

Hi All,

I am hoping to find a source for cotton cording online. I want to use it for couching, so the thickness is not a huge consideration. A range of sizes could work.

I could possibly also use a combo of poly/rayon and cotton, but I would have to see it to see if it would be matte enough.

100% Rayon is just too shiny and I can't abide it in this application.

Anyone?

Thanks
Val

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

Hoop wire

2009-07-14T22:28:33Z

Can folks send me their online or brick-and-morter (SF Bay Area) resources for plastic hoop wire? I bought some stuff from Lacis that is too flimsy and absolutely doesn't hold up to even a broadcloth farthingale. I like the linen covered metal, but the client wants plastic. Help!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 31 replies

Pill box hats

2009-07-06T09:25:19Z

For some reason I'm suddenly curious. Could someone please talk about the ubiquitous "pill box" style Elizabethan ladies' cap/hat? What is it really? Should it really be a pill box or has that just become a stand-in for some harder to replicate shape? Pictures? Anyone?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 7 replies

French Hoods with padded rolls?

2009-07-02T20:20:59Z

HI Folks,

Several new cast members have asked me about wearing French hoods with padded rolls instead of crescents (ala page 140 of Winter and Savoy's "Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550 to 1580") and I can't seem to find any paintings or drawing from period of English ladies wearing anything like this.

I am not sure if these padded roll hoods are period correct or if they were ever worn by the English...I wonder if this is a misinterpretation of something else ???

Can anyone point me to a painting or other source for these padded roll hoods or does anyone know the origin of this hat appearing in the Winter and Savoy book?

thanks,
Vel

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 27 replies

Sewing machines

2009-07-02T01:09:27Z

My 25-year-old SInger is getting crotchety and I am considering acquiring a new machine. Most of my sewing is Elizabethan costuming in nature, with possibly some Victorian costuming coming up. I do embroidery by hand, so am not really looking for that particular bell and whistle. Looking for a Honda/Ford rather than a Rolls Royce/Mercedes, one that sews through thin and thick and never breaks or gets temperamental. Whaddya reccomend?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 14 replies

using your body to make a dress form

2009-06-29T23:33:32Z

my dress form fell apart, hey it was over 50 years old....
i can't afford another dress form right now. i was looking a the old post and in the thread topic for directions to make a corset from duct tape, which i have done successfully, there were replies about making a dress form from your body with tape and sometimes stuffing.

could some when tell me, step by step, how this is done. including how you'd attach a stand

i am open to different techniques, using different tape or other techniques (non tape) to constructing a dress form.

i am constructing more costuming of late then i have before and this lack of a dress form i maddening!

thank you, for your help and ideas

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 3 replies

Source for wool and velvet

2009-06-29T20:41:23Z

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/

Click on swatches to get a larger view. But the best part is, you can order as little as 1/8 yard to get a selvedge-to-selvedge sample before committing. And the prices are reasonable, too.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

looking for information about this neckline, help me please?

2009-06-29T15:33:51Z

Well, ok, although we've sort of puzzled over it before. I'm wondering if anyone has any insights about the white pleated thing in the neckline of Promenade:

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/19463764/319813302.jpg

It doesn't look like anything I've seen anywhere else, and the Baroness and I were undecided about whether it was supposed to be part of a smock; the idea of that makes sense, but it doesn't seem to resemble other period smocks.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 5 replies

Hand sewing inspiration

2009-06-27T06:06:04Z

As a hand sewer, seeing the work of other hand sewers is very helpful. It keeps me going and reminds me how good and accurate a hand sewn garment can look.

Here are a few links to sites and the work of people I've admired for some time. I hope they are as interesting to you as they are to me.

The first stop is Britain's Tudor Group, which reconstructs domestic life in the late Tudor Era, from sheep shearing on up to an entire upper class household. The Tudor Group is the very best at what it does and maintains a strict, hand stitched policy for all clothing worn by its members. They have long been known for their lower class reconstructions, and have worked up the ladder to upper class, with Sutcliff Manor in 2004, and for the past two years, Haddon Hall. Their over-the-top blue silk suit is probably the finest reconstruction of its type today.

Members of the group have also contributed to the BBC series "Tales of the Green Valley," and "The Victorian Farm," and consult with the Globe Theater. Other members are active with the Mary Rose Trust and operate a reconstruction of the warship's brick stove, demonstrating how food was cooked for several hundred men at once in the bowels of a Tudor ship.

This weekend they are showing off several months of hard work with "My Lord and Lady's Chambers," which shows how upper class people dressed and lived. Its held at Haddon Hall again, and should be spectacular.

http://www.tudorgroup.co.uk/

The next few sites show the work of various individuals and groups in Europe, focusing primarily on the Medieval period. Diu Minnezit is in Germany, and focuses on the 1250-1475 period, with garments for men and women rigorously documented, and fabrics (like the Tudor Group) often dyed using correct period methods.

http://www.diu-minnezit.de/

A directly link to the clothes if you cant wait:

http://www.diu-minnezit.de/realien_kategorie.php?sid=0&lid=0&catid=3&tid=4

Next, a series of Swedish reconstructions, including a Landsknecht. Each has a separate section detailing the various components that make up the clothes and with close up images of the garments directly:

http://histvarld.historiska.se/histvarld/draekter/draekter.html

Here is another site, where they not only make their own clothes, but everything else by hand, including the scissors. Check out the hand-sewn linen tent, and play around in the links.

http://kurage.wordpress.com/

A big group isn't necessary, and here is the page of a guy who does his own stuff.

http://historiskdrakt.blogspot.com/2008/06/cotehardie-1300-talets-andra-hlft.html

I hope this is as helps,

H

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 8 replies

Duct tape body block

2009-06-24T01:18:00Z

Considering drafting a doublet using this method (putting on a t-shirt, wrapping up the body in duct tape and cutting up the result as pattern pieces)

Has anyone here tried it? Is it useful?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 47 replies

Costuming in Germany

2009-06-22T18:28:27Z

Y'all know about these folks, right? http://www.mauritia.de/en/

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

What is the history of those rag belt things?

2009-06-22T17:58:51Z

You know the ones I mean... Those braided fabric belts, usually bright colors, usually tied around waists of the lower classes..... Are they something that those people would have had? I've often wondered, please enlighten me if you can! Ta. :D

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 18 replies

Sotheby's New Auction

2009-06-18T15:30:58Z

Hello Ladies and Gents,

The new Sotheby's catalogue is online and seems to have a couple of 'later period' painting included. These have a lovely zoom function available on them. Enjoy!

http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails&event_id=29195

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

Scanned booklets of antique patterns

2009-06-12T01:00:01Z

I was looking for lace edging patterns and found this site.

http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/completelist.htm

It is mostly copies of pattern booklets from the late 1800's to early 1900's.

However, I did find this one on Jacobean Embroidery, it also includes information from the Tudor period.
http://www.antiquepatterns.dreamhosters.com/FitzwilliamJacobean.pdf

This one is in German, so I don't know what it says, but it has 16th Century embroidery designs in it.
http://www.antiquepatterns.dreamhosters.com/EgenolffModelbuch.pdf

The German booklet is from http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/index.html which also contains some interesting information that I'm looking forward to reading.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 1 reply

aiglets for shirt points

2009-06-11T20:30:39Z

I can't remember who asked me or how long ago, and I can't find it by searching thr topics weither, so I'll just start fresh.

Someone asked about the little brass and silver colored tags I (and some others) use to finish points on shirt collars and cuffs. They're hard to describe and, as far as I knew, had vanished from the earth except for the last couple dozen in my bead box--only because I bought a gross of each color about, I dunno, 20 years ago (at Berger Beads in downtown LA.). But lo! Here they are on Ebay!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=390021752176&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1120

They're quite small, and just fit on the end of a 1/4" ribbon. fold the piece in half at the waist, then stitch through the holes. Keep it neat, of course. You may want to put a dot of FrayCheck on it too, just in case. Regina Lawson Voorhes found them recently and asked if they were the ones. AND THEY ARE!!!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 9 replies

Blocked hats

2009-06-08T16:52:20Z

I'd like to make use of the many felt and straw blanks I have. Were blocked hats (NOT fabric covered) period for upper class/nobility???

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 30 replies

Pinking and slashing ...

2009-06-08T04:08:10Z

Looking for some good online resources for pinking and slashing ... I am looking for examples, inspiration, design ideas blah blah blah

Anyone got a few good links to throw my way?

Thanks!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 31 replies

Fabric Sale

2009-06-07T02:04:40Z

Denver Fabrics is having their end of season clearance. Even the 54" cotton velvet is down to $11 a yard.
https://www.denverfabrics.com/

Disclaimer: no association with the company except as a customer.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 3 replies

Storage ideas

2009-06-02T17:11:40Z

Since we were talking Studios, and I am working on reorganizing mine... anyone have a suggestion on how to store basket reeds? It is Elizabethan as they were used in my effigy stays and my French farthingale. I thought of zip lock baggies, but I am concerned they would not breathe well in the plastic, and may get brittle or worse. Anyone have any suggestions?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

Studios

2009-06-01T22:02:57Z

I'm SO into my studio right now, painting walls and woodwork, setting up new storage, rearranging. I wonder if y'all would be intereseted sharing:

1) Photos / descriptions of your sewing spaces,
2) Track of / inventory systems for the stash (fabric, notions, etc.),
3) Storage arrangement: by color? fiber? ra?
4) Web resources for staple supplies as well as specialty supplies.

For example, I just found that www.hardwareworld.com sells peg board hooks so I can get 400 thread-spool-sized L-hooks for $.20/pc rather than local hardware store price - and I can get them in bulk. What sources do you have??

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 42 replies

Queen Elizabeth Re-Enactor

2009-06-01T16:54:12Z

Hello - I am looking for a living historian in the NY metro-area who can play a Queen Elizabeth for weekends this December in a museum setting. If interested, please contact me at mdellacroce@plantingfields.org

Thank you!
Marianne

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

Project organizing

2009-05-26T22:38:00Z

I asked the amazing Kimiko if she had suggestions for organizing projects, as she does for organizing the stash, and yes indeed she did.
http://www.houseofpung.net/

I feel more virtuous already.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 7 replies

woven ribbon fabric

2009-05-24T22:29:33Z

So, what do you experts think about woven "ribbon" fabric for doublet onlay/sleeves? Would grosgrain ribbon be okay for this, or would one need to make strips of fabric?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 27 replies

Anything good here?

2009-05-23T07:43:00Z

I got an email about Showtime's "The Tudors" show, and it said that Museum Replicas was invited to do a Tudor line, based on the show.

www.museumreplicas.com, then find/hit "shop for licensed products" and find "the Tudors"

Anything close to authentic here?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 27 replies

Elizabethan Men's Shirt

2009-05-22T04:24:46Z

http://www.houseffg.org/resources/Elizabethan%20Shirt.pdf

I was planning on using this method...the zigzag bits on the side seem a bit strange though...
Any thoughts?

I could just change it to straight sides with gussets under the arms, yes?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 39 replies

Patterns that are accurate from Butterick, Simplicity, and Mccalls

2009-05-18T01:40:05Z

Okay, MOSTLY accurate, or can be made accurate with a few changes, drafting out darts etc. Please feel free to add any patterns or comments, I'd love to hear from you!

How about this one to start? What do you think? What's good, what's bad? I'll add more as I find them.

http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/simplicity/4488/4488.jpg

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 60 replies

After many years, I have finally purchased it!

2009-05-04T21:07:50Z

Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 from a booth at RPFS who has such things as well as patterns, notions and fabrics.

I have been wanting and drooling over this book for probably more than a decade since I saw it at a Barnes and Noble.

Granted, I could have gotten it cheaper through Amazon, but I could get instant gratification.

It's a beautiful book and may increase my desire to work on my seamstress' skills and maybe make upper class clothing.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 7 replies

Who here does SCA cooking?

2009-05-04T18:46:25Z

There is no SCA cooking forum that's all that active, so I am being a bit OT, sorry.

My friend bought me a book for my birthday called The Art of Cookery (in the middle ages) by Terence Scully.

Is it worth anything? Does anyone know?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

French fashion

2009-05-03T19:07:46Z

Hi,
I am looking for suggestions on how to make a character appear more French. I've reseached a little, but I'm not sure if there is something that would help identify the fashion as being "not from England". You know how the German or Italian fashion has a very different look. Is there anything notably French in the clothing for the time period of the Elizabethan Ren Faires?

Thanks,
Laurie

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 11 replies

Tainted love

2009-05-03T02:56:20Z

OK. I'm in love with a poly/ viscose blend damask. (what the heck is viscose? isn't that an adjective?)

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat2589&PRODID=prd45521

I want it! Even though it's not the right fibers! It looks much better on the other side, with the burgundy in the background.
Trouble is, even on sale at $9.99, I can't afford enough for a dress.

On the other hand, this:

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat2586&PRODID=prd45520

Is on clearance and I could get it for $3/yd.
Now I know I can't dye it the color I want, so I'd be stuck with off-white on gold.

I've always felt that a decorated forepart ought to be lighter in color than the overgown. So that would leave me with white or off-white.
Showing every spot of dirt and looking like a wedding dress. Sigh.

I don't need an upper-class gown. I have no good reason to invest that much money in an outfit.
I must keep repeating these things to myself.

Only y'all here understand this sort of quandary. (wine whine whine, get back to sewing)

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 12 replies

Double Rows of Buttons

2009-05-01T16:30:14Z

Please, to all my esteemed costumers around the world, were there doulble rows of buttons on men's doublets or jerkins?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 47 replies

Brocades

2009-05-01T16:25:38Z

Seeing an awful lot of newer court suits being made entirely of one sort of brocade or another, some jacquards - and most of them in notably un-Elizabethan patterns.

Discuss.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 63 replies

Tall Hat ...

2009-04-29T14:33:55Z

I have found a few sources online for making an Elizabethan Tall Hat but I am not 100% happy with what I have found. Do you have any online sources that you use ... maybe with some pictures that show the construction process? I have the pattern made. I just want to see a few photos of someone documenting their process.

It's been frustrating making this hat so far as the people I know that have made their hats will tell you first thing "It's too hard. If you havent made one before you shouldnt try it".

forget that. THEY had to have a first time for making one too and you know what? Elizabethans made them too. It's junk like that which makes me not want to share my tips when they call asking how I make a __________

So if you happen to have a link or two handy that you refer to when you make a hat and any other tips and ideas I'd appreciate them. At this point I plan to do plastic canvas instead of buckram. From what I have been able to get is that using the plastic canvas, it makes the hat a little less hot to wear, and easier to clean if you use water safe fabrics.
I'm all about that.

Thanks in advance for any links or tips you can share.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 18 replies

Wool Co-Op - High Quality 100% Wool Coatings, Flannels, Crepes - April 2009

2009-04-25T01:20:00Z

Greetings unto the List!

Tristan the fabric guy here.

Please forgive the plug, but we have a fantastic wool co-op going on right now on our period fabric co-op group. Please come and join us and get yourself some great period fabric for cheap.

Here is the yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gypsycaravancoop/

~Tristan el Gitano
Gypsy Caravan fabric guy
http://www.bigdaddygypsy.com

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

Black Clothing as a Form of Nationalism

2009-04-24T19:03:12Z

Peacocks and Penguins: The Political Economy of European Cloth and Colors
Author(s): Jane Schneider
Source: American Ethnologist, Vol. 5, No. 3, Political Economy (Aug., 1978), pp. 413-447
Published by: Blackwell Publishing on behalf of the American Anthropological Association
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/643750

An interesting article - Discusses dye/trade routes, sumptuary laws as a form of trade protectionism, the shift in fiber trade from the Medieval through Modern periods. I liked it.

For those without JSTOR access who are intersted in reading it, please contact me with your e-mail addy and I will send you a copy.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 28 replies

Concessions for modern time stuff

2009-04-22T02:28:10Z

While we try to be as historically accurate as possible ... how many concessions do y'all make for modern times?

I occassionally wear my glasses because it's better to be able to see for my own (as well as everyone else's) safety.

And this weekend (possibly for the duration of this season's entire run of Faire) I'm thinking of wearing a black arm-band or black sash on the pommel of my sword as a symbol of my mourning a friend who recently passed.

... I know this practice wasn't done as a symbol of mourning back in Elizabethan times ... but what DID they do, anyway?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 16 replies

About the shoes...

2009-04-22T00:52:51Z

For those of you who might be interested in how those Bloch practice shoes have done.

So far, pretty good. I think I might get some thin insoles for them, but basically they've been pretty comfortable. I've worn them twice now.

First time for over 12 hours at Coronation, which was mostly standing and sitting and little walking. A little "pinchy" at first, but that was the actuall first wearing and they had softened up well to fit my foot by the end of the day.

Second wearing to GRF on Sunday. This is the one that made me decide on some insoling. The paths there are very rocky, and these have rather thin soles for dancing. I'll probably want thinner socks with no toe seam. The cashmere I wore did okay until the toe seam crawled up on top and got a bit uncomfortable.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 11 replies

Pictures as promised

2009-04-21T23:31:04Z

Here's what pictures there are of the new gown. http://people.tribe.net/maggiros/photos

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

Never Again

2009-04-21T16:52:10Z

I'll never machine sew a ruffle again!

So I posted pics of the shirt I'm working on.
So far it's just cuffs, a collar, and cut out pieces.

Sticking that ruffle into its cuff by hand just now was the easiest freaking thing ever! It only took a few minutes and looks awesome!
Had I done it by machine it would've taken twice as long, involved cursing, and not looked nears as neat.

I compare the experience of walking to a destination less than a mile away.
Would I rather drive, if there is traffic, two lights, and a full parking lot one has to pay for at the end of the drive?
No. If I have the physical ability to do so, and the weather's not horrible, it would be easier just to walk. Cheaper and less hassle, too.

So I'll never insert a gathered bit into a straight bit by machine ever again.

(gloat, gloat)

P.S. Yes, the edge of the ruffle is finished with an obvious machine stitch. This was originally going to be a quick-and-dirty project, and straight hemming is still easier and faster for me by machine. Not that I'm not tempted to pull out the machine stitches now that the rest of it pleases my eyes so much better... but there's a deadilne for the outfit, sigh.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

Looking for a Womens Doublet Pattern, Italian or English (Also posted in Ren Faire History Snobs)

2009-04-14T15:29:48Z

I want to upgrade my outfit and make a doublet for myself, but need some tips on where to find a good pattern. Nothing too elaborate, I'm on a budget of around $15, and I already have a good skirt and shirt to wear with it. Any tip or hints on where to find a quality pattern? I am ready to settle for less than perfect historical accuracy, I am still little more than a novice at sewing. Thanks. :D I really would like one without what looks like a peplum, I don't know a lot of the right construction words, sorry.

Is it okay if I post a picture or a link of what I am looking for?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 10 replies

Wearing bum rolls

2009-04-08T01:55:37Z

Ok, I really enjoyed how people made their bum rolls and got many great ideas and info. Now enough comments have gone by that I wonder.. how do you wear your bum rolls? And does anyone know how they were actually worn? The reason I ask is because I've seen some ladies wear theirs right against their waistline, but the Tudor Tailor book shows the bum roll being worn below and away from the waist, and above their hips - which would seem to give more of a larger bum look, I think.

So, folks, where do you wear your bum roll?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

Bum rolls

2009-04-07T18:55:42Z

I am making my very first bum roll, to wear under a large French farthingale as support (which it needs). I was wondering what fabric people here make their bum rolls from? Does it have to be canvas? Thank you.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 19 replies

The Other Boleyn Girl

2009-04-07T01:58:53Z

A friend of mine convinced me to watch this last night. I did so.

How do you make your eyes stop bleeding? It's messing up my keyboard...

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 24 replies

Two-tone doublet

2009-04-06T23:42:44Z

#1. Is there documentation for a two-toned doublet, that is:
* the front is blue fabric from the neck to the point below the waist, but in a 'V' from the armscyes down such that black fabric is at the side fronts, and
* the back is blue fabric from the neck to the bottom of the shoulder blades, but the black fabric starts from under the should blades to the hem.
There any portraits of this? I know we do weird things at faires to save cost or reinterpret design, but I want to know how off-base this is.

#2. My client wishes tabs at the shoulders and waist. I would make the shoulder tabs from the blue fabric at the top of the doublet, but what do I make the bottom tabs out of? I would think I'd make them out of the bottom black fabric, but will that look funny to have tabs on the same garment of two fabrics?

#3. THEN what do I do about the Venetians?! I would THINK I'd make them out of the black to continue that sleek line down from the bottom half of the doublet, but should I rather make them out of the blue??

What's historically accurate and does anyone have portraits to back any of this up?!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 35 replies

I am in such pain . . . .

2009-04-05T15:30:19Z

How many women and Noel here have confidently dumped out their dye bath to find splotchy half-dyed fabric? Everyone weep sympatheticly with me as I await the open of Joann's tomorrow. Oh dammit.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 22 replies

Transparent over-sleeves

2009-03-31T21:47:49Z

While we were talking about linen for ruffs and things, I sidetracked myself, apparently, into thinking about what to use to protect embroidered sleeves that would be as transparent as the paintings seem to show. I mean, it eeds to be as clear as water, pretty much, and where would that come from. Well this morning, while looking for something else of course, I came across this. Silk tulle.

http://www.anjooriansilks.com/gallery/detail.asp?iCat=11&iPic=2779 I don't want to think about the price... They don't even post them.

or this one
http://www.victorianfashions.com/silktulle.html

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 21 replies

Knitted and felted flat cap

2009-03-30T20:35:37Z

This is mostly for Pax and Eric, but also for anyone else who is interested:
(original from a 16th century Venetian shipwreck)
http://curiousfrau.com/Diaries/Knitted_Hat_Gagiana.htm
http://curiousfrau.com/Tutorials/knitting_gagina.htm

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 7 replies

Someone tell me what's going on in these outfits...

2009-03-27T11:27:03Z

I tried posting the image to the group but it wasn't showing up...so here's the link:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/w-_B9PVGODa1RMtA0VwQxw?feat=directlink

Is the woman on the left wearing a doublet over her kirtle/gown?

The woman on the right is a mystery to me. She looks to have a blue bodice, an orange "petticoat". Why would she be wearing a separate skirt over her gown, as well as an apron? Is this evidence of the bodice and skirt being made of different fabrics? I don't think there is much evidence of separate skirts in this period(1569).

Any takers?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 16 replies

Bodies for sale (1 pair)

2009-03-23T11:17:42Z

I'll be posting this in a few other places as well, hoping to find a good home for this item. Please feel free to forward or repost to any relevant groups, lists, etc.

One Pair of bodies for sale, early to middle Tudor shape.
New, never worn, custom made in non-smoking house
$150 or best reasonable offer, open to barter

Measurements:
Bust 39 inches or greater
Waist 32 inches or greater
Center front length 10.5 inches
Side armpit to waist length 6 inches
Top neckline width 13 inches between strap points

This is for a very short waisted lady,
please check your measurements carefully.

2 layers of unbleached 100% cotton duck, prewashed, with 28 hand cut bones,
6 of which are rust-proofed steel
22 hand stitched eyelets for center-back lacing in a spiral fashion
12 hand stitched eyelets for attachment of removable straps, included
top edge bound with yale blue bias tape, to match eyelets

This was a commissioned piece which was almost finished when the lady
who ordered it left my group and didn't need one anymore.
That was a few years back and I'm tired of carrying it around.

For any other questions please email.

Thanks,

Michele

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 1 reply

Also on colors

2009-03-22T00:12:25Z

Not wanting to high-jack the other thread, I wanted to say something. We should all really rethink what we assume are period colors. I thought I knew, but I just picked up this cheap "natural" dyeing book, which has all period dyestuffs, mordants and modifiers.

Things I automatically noticed:
What we call purple can be made from madder. Whatever was the purple for only the highest ranks, is certainly not Verney purple.
Blue-black is made in a one hour dye bath of un-mordanted indigo. And it's color fast for the ages. warm blacks take more layers of dye and are more expensive.
Bright pink is really easy to make.

Not wanting to break ten bazillion copyright laws, I will only recommend that B&N carries it for $15. So worth it.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 6 replies

Let's talk colors!

2009-03-18T23:51:46Z

I was tickled to see what Oriana said about colors available in period. Especially since I'm trying desperately to finish an orange taffeta gown before Gulf Wars. And I'm getting ready to do a Henrican gown just to say I did it. I know, I'm a glutton for punishment. But after looking over the destructions in Tudor Tailor, and eyeballing a couple gowns on Ninya's website, I'm pretty sure I can deal with it.

I digress. I also didn't want to take away from Luna's original discussion.

I know there was a lot more color available AND used than some of folks want to admit to (why I'm not sure), and it's quite clear that Elizabethans LOVED color! And the whole thing tickles me to no end because I'm sure the local Laurels will cringe. *evil grin*

Soooo.... Would there be (obviously due to cost) more available to upper class than middle or lower? Were some colors "reserved" for the upper classes?

Let's have some fun talking about this one!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 25 replies

For those who want a pretty brocade source

2009-03-10T19:39:57Z

Fabric.com has just got in some nice Ecclesiastical brocade. Not too churchy looking, and a really great price. Right at $16 for 60" wide. Good color choices, and several woven with metallic threads.

Here's the link.

http://www.fabric.com/SearchResults2.aspx?Source=Header&SearchText=brocade&CategoryID=1d5f47dc-9991-4088-93f3-26a376046a5e

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 7 replies

Slightly OT - Linen

2009-03-10T06:03:17Z

This may be slightly OT but I knew if anyone had the answers it would be this group.

Modern Linen - What is its cotton content? 100%? 50%? Mixtures?

The question came up during a training session i was holding at work. the company job requirements are that personal clothing be at least 65% cotton and in some areas 100% cotton.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 10 replies

Linen Co-Op - High Quality European Flax - March 2009

2009-03-07T02:45:24Z

Greetings unto the Tribe,

Please forgive the plug, but we have a fantastic linen co-op going on right now on our period fabric co-op group. Please come and join us and get yourself some great period fabric for cheap.

Here is the yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gypsycaravancoop/

~Tristan el Gitano
Gypsy Caravan fabric guy

(some cross posting, please forgive the redundancy)

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 0 replies

Shoe help?

2009-03-06T04:13:21Z

Y'all I am having a HELL of a time finding ANY suitable shoes that aren't $200.00!

I love the Soles thru Time shoes, but they're just too rich for my budget right now. I found some terrific ones on Realm Collections, but of course they don't have my size right now and don't know if they'll get more. : (

ANYONE out there have some suggestions as to where to look or what I can get and modify the look a bit to get what I need? I'd really like a low heeled shoe rather than a flat as I have a really hard time keeping flats on my feet and walking comfortably.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 15 replies

English Icon

2009-03-05T16:28:43Z

I finally am getting my very own copy thanks to ABE Books and a strong dollar
http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=roy+strong&sts=t&tn=english+icon&x=55&y=19

Honestly, if you can do it, it's a book that belongs on every Elizabethan's shelf. And they have a big handful or two of copies for less than $100!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

Answer me these questions three . . . .

2009-03-04T02:59:03Z

Before I stop pestering the crap out of you guys. Maybe, no garauntees.

Question 1: I want to recreate this dress, which is not the fabric I am dyeing, it's a different project
http://tribes.tribe.net/elizabethan_clothing/photos/07fdd951-9489-41a6-864d-9822a583f428
Because I don't want to make the shirt that goes with it because it would match only that dress, I was looking for sleeved versions of this dress and have found none. Have you guys found any?

Question 2: Ehrmmm . . . .dern. Yes, dern. What was I going to ask?!? AHA! I have seen many pictures of Middle Ages bedrooms where there's bed drapes that are blue with fleur-de-lis or some kind of heraldry or focused design, but I can't find any late period pictures of beds and bedrooms that is believeable or detailed enough to glean documentation from. Who has documentation for late period bed drapes?

Question 3: Why are there so many dress diaries, and how would one start one?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 3 replies

Middle Class Farthingale Circumference

2009-03-03T16:44:32Z

Any ideas on what should be the ideal circumference for the bottom of an average middle class farthingale?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 32 replies

Royal School of Needlework Day Classes USA 2009

2009-02-23T23:07:23Z

**Reposted - clearly, not all of the techniques covered are from the 16th C, but a few are.**

At the Hyatt Regency Hotel San Francisco Airport

In May 2009 the RSN will run Day Classes in a variety of hand embroidery techniques. The One Day Classes will give you an introductory taster to each technique. The Two Day classes will help you to further develop your skills.

RSN small-group Day Classes are friendly, relaxed and fun with a maximum of fourteen students in each class. The classes are designed to teach you sound traditional technique and help you explore how you can move on to develop and use your embroidery skills in diverse ways.

All our RSN tutors are graduates of the RSN apprenticeship and they are highly-skilled technical embroiderers with a wealth of teaching and professional working experience.

The Tutors

Lucy Barter is one of the most talented designer/embroiderers of her generation. She gained a BA Honours in Fashion Design specialising in children’s wear. After several years living in San Francisco and designing for established children’s fashion labels in both England and America including the Gap, Gymboree and Pottery Barn Kids Lucy discovered the RSN and became aware of the versatility of embroidery as a functional and exciting decorative art form. The appeal of the RSN’s history, teaching methods and surroundings enticed Lucy back from the States to enrol onto the apprenticeship in 2003.She graduated in August 2006 with Distinction and after staying at the RSN for a short while to teach, retuned to San Francisco , California , where she now lives with her husband.

Owen Davies is the only man to have graduated from the RSN Apprenticeship. He worked for two years in the Studio as embroiderer/ tutor and on leaving the RSN he began a freelance career as a textile artist teaching at venues all over Britain.He also became the Needlework Consultant for the John Lewis Partnership. He has always had a passion for gardening and created the Embroidered Knot Gardens course teaching needlework to like-minded enthusiasts. Owen co-wrote the best-selling book " Embroidered Knot Gardens " book published by Anova in 2006.

Helen McCook graduated from the RSN in 2003 having previously gained a BA in Printed and Dyed Textiles. She was Head of Textiles
and Costume at Bonham’s Auction House for three years and then spent a year as production manager for the embroidery company Hand & Lock. Helen is a specialist in 17th & 18th century costume and embroidery and she now pursues a career as a freelance teacher and lecturer.

Here is a brief description of the classes:

Jacobean Crewel Work – this decorative technique is one of the earliest forms of surface embroidery traditionally worked in crewel wool on linen twill. The term Jacobean refers to the traditional designs that evolved from the Indian chintz patterns imported to England during the seventeenth century.

Jacobean Classes
Friday May 01 - A Day of Jacobean Crewel work with Owen Davies.
Sunday May 10 - A Day of Jacobean Crewel work with Helen McCook.

Goldwork – a sumptuous technique which has been valued for many centuries as a sign of status and wealth. Working with metal thread on silk or velvet this traditional technique adapts well to contemporary designs. Learn the elements of padding for preparation and how to handle and couch down a variety of metal threads.

Goldwork Classes
Saturday May 02 – A Day of Goldwork with Lucy Barter
Friday May 08 - A Day of Goldwork with Owen Davies

Canvas Stitches – master the technique of a variety of canvas stitches and discover how the use of different stitches can enhance your design. Explore the use of a variety of textured threads for traditional pieces or contemporary designs.

Canvas Painting – Learn how to paint an image onto canvas for you to stitch.

Embroidered Knot Gardens – Create your own three-dimensional garden on a canvas base. Use textured stitches in a variety of threads to create flower beds, topiary hedges and water features.

Canvaswork Classes
Sunday May 03 – A Day of Canvas Stitches with Helen McCook.
Tuesday May 12 – Canvas painting with Lucy Barter.
Wednesday May 13 & Thursday May 14 – Embroidered Knot Gardens with Owen Davies.

Silk Shading – a beautiful technique worked with one strand of cotton or silk thread and known as “painting with a needle”. Learn how
to blend colours and stitches to create a very natural effect.

Silk Shading Class
Monday May 04 – A Day of Silk Shading with Helen McCook.

Blackwork -- A counted thread technique said to have been introduced into England by Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII. The
stitches form geometric patterns which give stunning effects especially with architectural themes or portraits.

Blackwork Class
Friday May 08 – A Day of Blackwork with Helen McCook.

Whitework -- Embroidery worked in white thread on a white background covering a wide variety of delicate techniques suitable for babywear, bridal wear and table linen. The traditional stitches of whitework can also be adapted to create stunning contemporary designs.

Whitework Classes
Saturday May 09 – A Day of Whitework with Lucy Barter
Sunday May 10 & Monday May 11 – Contemporary Whitework with Owen Davies.

Stumpwork A delightful technique of miniature raised embroidery originating in the seventeenth century. With stumpwork you can create
charming images of animals, insects, flowers and miniature portraits.

Stumpwork Class
Wednesday May 13 & Thursday May 14 Stumpwork with Lucy Barter

An Introduction to Embroidery Class
Thursday May 07 with Helen McCook – A Day of Introduction to Stitches - and how to use them to best advantage. This day will be perfect for anyone who is new to embroidery or who needs a refresher to get started again.

Decorative Tassels Class
Tuesday May 05 and Wednesday May 06 with Helen McCook – Have fun for two days creating fabulous tassels on wooden moulds.

Exploring Historic Stitches
Saturday May 09 with Helen McCook – A special day devoted to examining stitches frequently used during the 17th, 18th & 19th centuries which are seldom seen today. Discover how these stitches were used in the context of their time and how some have evolved into stitches we use today.

General Information: All classes run from 10.00am to 4.00pm with a one hour lunch break.

Class Fees: One Day Class £90.00 sterling. Two Day Class £170.00 sterling.

Payments in sterling by Visa, MasterCard or Direct Bank Transfer to RSN please.

Fees include the materials required for the class.

To book a class please contact:

Gill Holdsworth Email Gill.Holdsworth@royal-needlework.org.uk or Tel +44 (0)20 3166 6937

Or print and mail the booking form which can be sent from The Status Thimble.

Accommodation

Available at the Hyatt Regency Hotel San Francisco Airport with special rates for RSN students. Single or Double Occupancy $145.00 dollars per night. Triple Occupancy $170.00 dollars per night. Quadruple occupancy $195.00 dollars per night. (These rates are exclusive of state & local taxes & tourism fee.)

For hotel bookings please contact the Hyatt Regency San Francisco Airport direct:

Online: Go to Hyatt.com and search for the specific property ( San Francisco Airport ). Put it your dates and in the box labelled Group/Corporate# input the code "G-RSNN" and it will bring up the special group rate for you.

Telephone: 800-233-1234.. Just let the reservation agent know you would like to book a room under the Royal School of Needlework room block.

If you need further advice about hotel bookings, please contact Emily Loi emily.loi@hyatt.com

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 6 replies

Fabriholics- Let's talk silk

2009-02-23T21:11:14Z

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=NN136

Does any one know anything about this type of silk weave? I read that it is a heavier weight, which makes it an ideal candidate for a gown, trunkhose, any type of outerwear. Most silks that are readily available are too light of a weight to be used for outerwear. And at this price...seems like a steal!

What types of silk weaves were made around 1500-1600?

I know that dupioni silk, though beautiful, would have been "poor quality" by renaissance standards because of the slubs. What types of silk weaves are historically acceptable? FashionFabricsClub.com seems to have the best prices around for both silk and wool(though not linen, fabrics-store.com wins out there). Can anyone attest to the quality/price of FashionFabricsClub products?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 32 replies

Kirtle Construction

2009-02-20T02:53:47Z

I was looking closely at Elenora di Toledo's gown in Patterns of Fashion, the white silk satin gown with velvet embroidered gowns.

Which is lovely and all, but the curious thing was the "bodice" found worn underneath the gown. It's a front closing bodice with hooks and eyes(unlike the gown, side back lacing only), with no stitching or evidence to think that this was a corset(but it could have disintegrated), but no skirt with it either. There were holes along the bottom of it, but no skirt.

I'm of a mind to think that originally there was a skirt, and this was the kirtle worn under the gown, and not a corset.

What I'd like to make is a middle-class kirtle that I could wear by itself as a middle class townswoman, and wear it under a fancy upper-class gown as a support garment(not instead of a corset, but the underdress). I'm aiming more for English, not Italian(like the gown) or Flemish(like the paintings of happy peasants I've found, the Wedding Dance or somesuch).

The only things I can think of to make it look more "english" is adding guards down the front(the Italian paintings seem to favor a more plain front). Would a Middle Class woman wear just her kirtle? Or would she too wear two dresses layered? I'm sure she would have taken the heavier one off for hot work, but that's beside the point.
Does anyone have any reference images for English, middle class circa 1550-1560?

Any other thoughts regarding this kirtle/underdress thing are welcomed.

NB: The Henrican kirtle pattern in the Tudor Tailor seems very different, and I don't think it could not be worn by itself.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

Wool for cloaks

2009-02-20T00:07:33Z

The silk discussion prompts me to start a similar discussion on wools:

What are the period weaves for wool?

And, practically but also historically, what type of wool works best for a long cloak? (for warmth, rather than fanciness)? (Yes, we were cold in Vegas).

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 11 replies

Lightweight Linen on Sale!

2009-02-10T17:47:51Z

Just thought I'd let anyone know that wasn't on the fabrics-store.com mailing list,

they have 2.8 oz linen for 10% off this week. Usually the lightest weight they carry is the 3.5 oz (lovely, heavenly stuff).

I've been drooling over it since I wanted to make an italian camisia out of the lightest weight linen I could find...and now this comes on sale!

I'm 5 feet tall, 115 lbs...3 yards should be enough for a full camisia, right? :D Though greedy me might need 4... hehe

Fabriholics unite!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 4 replies

French hoods

2009-02-08T09:13:45Z

While we're discussing French hoods, I thought I'd give them their own topic.

I don't know if anyone's shared this paper yet, but I just found it. curiously, I happen to know the author as Mistress Louise of Woodsholme, and I can vouch for her as a scholar. http://woodsholme.com/hoods/FrenchHood-LouisePass.pdf

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 5 replies

Newbie help - partlet, ruffs and headwear

2009-01-27T16:04:41Z

Greetings all,

I am new to this group and am making my first Elizabethan outift, using the Simplicty 8881 Shakespeare in Love pattern as a rough guide.
I am loving it! The cartridge pleating was a challenge but worked out beautifully,. All is going well, but I am running out of time!! (my garb needs to be complete by this Saturday!)

I have a couple of questions:

1. Do I *have* to have a partlet? Can I just wear the neck ruff without the partlet or is that a big no no?

2. What kind of fabric should the partlet be made of (if I have to have one). I have half done one in silk chiffon and it is SO hard to work with. (plus I cut it a bit short at the front edges and will have to start again).

3. What kind of fabric should the ruffs be made of? The pattern calls for picot edge ribbon, but that is not doing it for me. I have found a fabulous 1/2" lace that almost looks like reticella, and would like to put that onto a fabric - but what kind?

4. Do I have to have wrist ruffs as well, or can I get away with just a neck ruff?

5. What on earth do I put on my head to suit that period? The Elizabethan tall hats do not look right to me. I was thinking of something like the Helena Snakenborg cap, but I cannot quite work out what shape it is.

Thank you very VERY much for your help.

Rosamond

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 46 replies

trunkhose logistics question

2009-01-27T00:39:43Z

A question about the logistics of attaching the panes to the trunkhose - how do you experienced folk manage the top part of the panes that attach on bottom at the inside of the leg? In other words, do you attach them sideways into the crotch seam, or have them bend around from the front top to the inside bottom, or what?

Also, if the overall dimension of the circumference the panes need to cover at the top is different than that at the bottom, do you gather the excess; space out the, um, opposite of excess; or taper the panes?

thanks!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 13 replies

Bead Source

2009-01-27T00:15:37Z

Wow! have you seen this stuff?

http://www.chelseasbeads.com/shop/

Look under Plated Metal Beads in particular for things you can actually use.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 6 replies

Padding the hems of skirts?

2009-01-26T02:16:42Z

So, I'm doing research into Venetian and Florentine Renaissance gowns and read in one of my new books that they would pad the hem.
Has anyone tried this? I have noticed in some of the paintings a puffyness on the gown hem. I have a plan to experiment but wondered if anyone has experience with this.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 12 replies

Decoration question

2009-01-21T17:41:24Z

I have searched in past posts but am having some problems locating sources.
Can anyone give me info on the use of welting as detail on woman's gowns during the reign of Elizabeth 1?

I remember having seen it on both men's doublets and women sleeves but can no longer find my sources. Maybe Holbein?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 6 replies

Wool Questions

2009-01-18T23:30:10Z

Hey, I'm Julienne(SCAdian name) and new to the group. I figured I needed to join after 4 seperate googling research links sent me to this group.

My persona is 14th century French, so Elizabethan costuming is new to me in general. But I enjoy making and appreciating garb from almost every period except 1600-1700(What were they thinking??). Haha. The new boyfriend, I decided, would be best in Elizabethan(I'm not the only one who decides that certain people look best in select few time periods, right?). And since he's going to be working the faire in Georgia come spring(Vendor, not Cast) he needs some bangin' threads. He's also new to the whole RenFaire and/or SCA scene, but mentioned to me he actually LIKED(the idea of wearing) ruffs...so I was naturally, estatic.

Thus begins my foray into Late-Period garb.
I'll have many more questions, but let's start with wool.

1) What weaves are "period" for wool fabric? I believe wool suiting fabric in a twill weave would be. I was told wool crepe was definately NOT a period weave. (Yes? No? But I got some for a ridiculously awesome price at Pennsic! It's offwhite-peachish and just begging to be dyed! It's so nice and finely woven...now what do I do with it?)
What is that lovely thick solid-color springy wool called that they make their stuff out of at Revival clothing called?

2) Is it really possible to find any for less than $9 a yard? Anywhere?
Joanns is the only fabric store in my area(fucking monopolies), but I do shop online as well(Wahh...but I can't tooouuchhh it...).

Yes, lots of questions, lots of parentheses...

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 12 replies

A question for those who judge A/S entries...

2009-01-12T23:25:08Z

I've got Midwinter A&S coming up here. And I'm seriously contemplating an entry in costuming. What sort of things do you look for in presentation, and the garment itself?

I once had a Laurel tell me (eons ago mind you) that she wouldn't give good marks to anything that wasn't mostly hand sewn. As you may well imagine, that was rather discouraging as I don't have the time nor patience to hand sew an entire outfit. Does that sort of thing REALLY matter? Or is it more in the correctness of the design, it's execution and documentation?
I don't really want to copy extant pieces exactly (although I've seen it done and done VERY well), I'd rather use extant examples as a jumping off point to use my own creative skills within the framework of the period.
I do end up doing a lot of handwork on each outfit... they just require it....but the WHOLE thing?

I'd love to hear it from the "horses mouth" so to speak. Judges and those of you who've entered work.

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 9 replies

The red dress

2009-01-07T02:44:47Z

So, ya know the red dress in out tribe's icon?
I betcha it's a front-opener. Check out the fine line down the center front.
Hidden hooks and eyes? Inside lacing?
Anybody know any written info on the specific dress to support or disprove my wild accusation?

Let's discuss...

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 8 replies

Merry Christmas!

2009-01-05T02:19:38Z

God bless, looking forward to more Elizabethan discussion ans camaraderie next year! Happy New Year!

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 20 replies

Rope for a corded petticoat

2009-01-03T20:02:23Z

I want to make a corded petticoat. Where can I find appropriate washable rope?

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 5 replies

New Book

2008-12-24T21:13:52Z

http://www.amazon.com/Basics-Corset-Building-Handbook-Beginners/dp/0312535732/ref=pd_ys_nr_all_3

Stumbled across this on Amazon.com. Thoughts?

Becky/Beatrix

posted in Elizabethan Clothing - 2 replies

Elizabethan Clothing's topics - tribe.net

Ruffs: excuses and explanations

Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead - Film Version 1990

A female merchant

Ren Faire research help?

more substantial eyelets/grommets?

teensy bit OT Question about whale parts and extant garments

Could this pattern be modified for a woman?

Findings: The Material Culture of Needlework and Sewing - by Mary Beaudry

Kunsthistorisches Museum - Miniature Portrait Gallery *all shots*

slightly ot, thread

Lacing

Blue Doublets? (X-Post from Ren Faire History Snobs)

fabric storage

Boycott Fashion Fabrics Club

Reconstructing History, or Margo Anderson...

Color Images

Black cotton velvet

Dry cleaner and wig shop needed!

Pewter button source?

Poly/cotton lacing

Grommet/lacing tape

caveat emptor

Linen Sale

Beta Test duds are complete...

Cotton cording online?

Hoop wire

Pill box hats

French Hoods with padded rolls?

Sewing machines

using your body to make a dress form

Source for wool and velvet

looking for information about this neckline, help me please?

Hand sewing inspiration

Duct tape body block

Costuming in Germany

What is the history of those rag belt things?

Sotheby's New Auction

Scanned booklets of antique patterns

aiglets for shirt points

Blocked hats

Pinking and slashing ...

Fabric Sale

Storage ideas

Studios

Queen Elizabeth Re-Enactor

Project organizing

woven ribbon fabric

Anything good here?

Elizabethan Men's Shirt

Patterns that are accurate from Butterick, Simplicity, and Mccalls

After many years, I have finally purchased it!

Who here does SCA cooking?

French fashion

Tainted love

Double Rows of Buttons

Brocades

Tall Hat ...

Wool Co-Op - High Quality 100% Wool Coatings, Flannels, Crepes - April 2009

Black Clothing as a Form of Nationalism

Concessions for modern time stuff

About the shoes...

Pictures as promised

Never Again

Looking for a Womens Doublet Pattern, Italian or English (Also posted in Ren Faire History Snobs)

Wearing bum rolls

Bum rolls

The Other Boleyn Girl

Two-tone doublet

I am in such pain . . . .

Transparent over-sleeves

Knitted and felted flat cap

Someone tell me what's going on in these outfits...

Bodies for sale (1 pair)

Also on colors

Let's talk colors!

For those who want a pretty brocade source

Slightly OT - Linen

Linen Co-Op - High Quality European Flax - March 2009

Shoe help?

Kunsthistorisches Museum - Miniature Portrait Gallery all shots