1) Keep your wicks out of sunlight. UV degrades Kevlar.
2) Avoid re-lighting your wicks when warm or hot. The initial temperature plays a fair role in how hot the wick will get during the course of a burn. At 700 degrees, your wicks begin degrading, after 5 minutes AT 700, the kevlar will start to cascade break down. If you dip, light and redip many time s a night, particularly if you use heavy lamp oil mixes, you could get your wicks up to 700 degrees for much more than 5 minutes.
3) Wick myths. The following do not affect your wicks:
a) amount of time spent soaking
b) putting them out (or not) on a single occasion (even the first time)
4) The following can affect your wicks
a) regular pre-extinguishing (less heat time, see above)
b) post soaking - This is a myth evolved from a real issue: hybrid or cotton core wicks. If a cotton core wick smoulders, the cellulose is performing a low-oxygen burn. Then post soaking will help. Kevlar canoot perform this kind of burn, but often looks like it does when lamp oil is involved. Nevertheless, typically, fuel is much cooler than the wicks, see item 2.
c) ground strikes to extinguish. Yes kevlar is tough, striking the ground can put your wicks out , but it weakens the kevlar, habitual striking will reduce lifespan.
d) Wick covers. See item 1, UV light.

Tin tape may help a little on you hoop, but you'd be better off just using high heat tubing. If you're going to be doing a LOT of vertical tricks, then large patches of tin may help. In addition make sure your spine material isn't flammable. Otherwise, shouldn't be an issue.