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i am a hooper who has hooped with a firehoop a few times, and i am trying to build my own fire hoop. i plan to use carriage screws/screws-all for spokes, and kevlar wicking, etc.
can someone please tell me what kind of hardware i need to affix the spokes to the hoop, and how to do so. i prefer to keep them detatchable, but that is not absolutely necessary. what hardware do i place inside the tubing to RECEIVE the spokes, and how do i do so?
this is the one mystery that is preventing me from building my fire hoop. as i have searched for an answer online and on tribe, i have begun to sense that this info is secret knowledge. please be merciful and let me into the secret society of those-who-build-thier-own-fire-hoops! :)
can someone please tell me what kind of hardware i need to affix the spokes to the hoop, and how to do so. i prefer to keep them detatchable, but that is not absolutely necessary. what hardware do i place inside the tubing to RECEIVE the spokes, and how do i do so?
this is the one mystery that is preventing me from building my fire hoop. as i have searched for an answer online and on tribe, i have begun to sense that this info is secret knowledge. please be merciful and let me into the secret society of those-who-build-thier-own-fire-hoops! :)
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Re: Please help with question :)
Thu, June 25, 2009 - 12:21 PMI would recommend using screw posts. These are hollow cylinders threaded on the inside, usually with a head like a regular screw. They usually come in 1/4" threaded diameter (it's easy to find allthread in that size also), with various lengths. I'd find posts that are long enough to go all the way through your hoop, from the inside to the out. They will create minor bumps on the inside surface of your hoop, but it shouldn't be much of a problem. You might want to thread a nut onto the allthread so that it sits just outside the screw post, and prevents the assembly from sliding inward. -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Fri, June 26, 2009 - 4:38 AMthanks to all for the info! and it's not that i am doing this solely to save money; i am a crafter by nature, and when i can make something with my own hands, i usually try to :)
thanks again to all!
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Re: Please help with question :)
Thu, June 25, 2009 - 12:22 PMAny kind of low-profile nut will do. Certain kinds of carriage bolts have smooth domed heads that can be inserted from the inside of the hoop with the wick at the tip.
I'm not a big fan of this method, so I'm not familiar with the attachments. But I've seen people use a wood anchor on some hoops with four spikes that get pounded into the hoop. Those are a bit problematic, though. -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Thu, June 25, 2009 - 2:41 PMHaving built 10 or 12 prototypes before I really came up with a design I am in love with, my best advice is that if you are building your own hoop to save money, stop now. You will NOT save money by building your own hoop.
There are many designs out there, take a close look at them and see what you like. I use large rivet nuts, but they require special tooling to use. -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Thu, June 25, 2009 - 2:42 PMwww.mcmaster.com for all your hardware needs. They have EVERYTHING pretty much.
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Re: Please help with question :)
Mon, June 29, 2009 - 7:36 AMwhat is are the problems with the wood anchor which has four spikes?
thnks! -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Mon, June 29, 2009 - 11:37 AMWell, it could be the style used by the person, rather than a trend. But they had a tendency to back out a little bit and become pinch points. Now that I think about it, they did use curved rods and I'm not sure about nuts on the other side, that might have been the issue. the other real problem is that they're not meant for holding a spine in plastic. Nothing is really, but there's a bunch of other options that at least have similar things in mind. Binding posts, for example are intended for: low profile, direct pull And lateral shear, pre-drilled holes, holding to the holes, repetitive impact abuse, and some even have low profile tool slots. But at least the ones I saw were placed on the inside of the hoop.
One of my biggest pet peeves is seeing something like a drywall anchor drilled into the outside of the hoop. Even if there's a little block of wood or whatever behind it, the device only has a partial bite on one thin wall of hoop. I'd rather see something on the inside of the hoop, where the full rim (of, say, a binding post) can hold onto the hoop and the outside hole helps stabilize the spine. That's the principal behind my design. -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Mon, June 29, 2009 - 3:55 PMthis makes sense. tho i have very little knowledge in this area, the friend who is helping me build these is essentially taking these grommet-type things with four spiky teeth on the back of each, and for each spoke there will be on the inside edge and another on the outside edge--spoke gets threaded thru, but stays flush with inside edge so as not to irritate, and then my friend is using a type of adhesive, then tin-tape for heat protection. the spokes will not be removeable.
i am sure this design seems crude, but essentially these are prototypes. as long as they are structurally sound and safe we will spin them, and i am sure our second generation of hoops will be much improved!
thanks again for sharing your expertise!
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Re: Please help with question :)
Fri, June 26, 2009 - 5:45 PMdont forget to check out Hoop City. I found a person who detailed their method for building fire hoops: safiredance.ning.com/forum/t...re-hoops -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Tue, June 30, 2009 - 2:25 PMT-nuts.
I'm not calling you a name... You can find them at any hardware store, in many sizes. Drill the hole, hammer in the t-nut, tape over. It's flat on the inside, no nut poking your sides.
Otherwise, there are other inserts that screw into the hoop, with big threads on the outside and bolt threads inside. They don't protrude at all, held in place by just enough length to sit flush in the holes you drilled. I dunno what they're called tho.... -
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Re: Please help with question :)
Wed, July 1, 2009 - 8:43 AMthanks! and you can call me a "T-nut" if you wish...i am sure i have been called worse! :)
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