I haven't seen any activity on PDX FNL in so long... is it 'cause I have a new email address, or 'cause it's winter, or 'cause we all hate the internet?
Here at my house we have a compost problem. I think I'm about to dig a hole in the yard to dump the contents of the earth machine into... to make room in the earth machine for the next year's batch of raw post... any tips much appreciated.

I would like to learn a lot more about seed saving, sharing, and seriously want to learn which seed-bearing and nut-bearing trees I should focus on planting for long-term sustainability. Guerilla style or otherwise. Anybody want to collaborate in any way on this? The only thing the local nursery seems to have for sale is Filbert trees. When I was a kid we used to take baby pine trees from the edge of the meadow at grandma's house, and plant them around the various places we moved to (we moved a lot - and some of them edward scissor-hands-style sprawling developments). I often think of poaching local food-bearing plants and planting them to help them propagate near where we live...
again,... any tips much appreciated.

Please write back soon, folks.
Just think, winter in Oregon is like spring in New York.

love
heather and justice
posted by:
Fearless
Oregon
  • shiz, I didn't even realize there was a pdx fnl tribe... shoulda guessed tho eh? hehehhe

    I've been looking into paulownia and honey locust as good sustainability seedsaving tree ideas... around here salal and oregon grape are very good choices too I bet!

    ;-}
    • RU Serious?

      Mon, December 31, 2007 - 5:40 PM
      Both of these are massively aggressive, invasive species which, given the rapid growth of natives such as red alder, vine maple, big-leaf maple and beautiful deciduous options such as Oregon white oak are completely unnecessary. If you were declaring war on a golf course, Paulownia spp or Gleditsia triacanthos might be a good choice, but so would clematis, English ivy or Himalayan blackberry.
      • Re: RU Serious?

        Tue, January 1, 2008 - 12:40 PM
        Hey, relax, I don't mean to declare war on anything, I made those suggestions for food and compost and building material suggestions.

        Your list is a lot more native than mine, and I really do love red alder. I would prefer to feed alder to my fungus than paulownia, but I think the lumber from paulownia is a better quality for building. Both seed in very similar ways, millions of tiny dustlike seeds that need a special combination of "disturbed ground" to germinate, both fix atmospheric nitrogen. And local native forest nursery debris? Alder wins that one hands down.

        But I also think "weedy plants" have some very useful purposes, and hence why I suggested saving seeds of a couple varieties, in contrast to local native seed banks.

        Do you have any experience saving and sprouting seeds of the varieties you mentioned? I do not but I would like to learn ;-}

        And since this is food not lawns we're talking about, how much of this stuff can I eat? I know you can eat red alder cambium, and tap them for syrup, and it's one of the most fantastic woods for growing edible and medicinal fungi... sprouting maple seeds are quite nutritious from what I"ve heard, both bigleaf and vine to keep with the natives theme... is the oregon white oak a good producer of acorns?

        And mmmmm licorice fern root tea ;-}
        • Re: RU Serious?

          Fri, January 4, 2008 - 9:07 PM
          Paulownia is kick-ass wood. My personal method for getting decent trees relocated is to find seedlings (less than three years) that are in a bad place and just dig them out and replant them. Mortality is about 50% after two years, but mortality would have been 100% for most of these that I've moved. Filberts, oak and walnuts are planted everywhere around here by squirrels and crows, with alder and maple dropping seeds like there is no tomorrow. One year I screwed up and left some pots of soil out over the winter, under a tree, and found in late spring when I got back around to fetch them that many had 2-4 young trees started in them, just from the samara and leaves.

          A lot of these trees (and ferns) can also be harvested from along county roads and areas marked for logging, if you are a hiker and out already. Just take a cooler and a bunch of water and containers (bread sacks or used paper cups) out with you. On your way back in, put water around the base to soften the soil and hydrate the plant, dig it up and put it semi-moist into the cooler, then plant it as soon as practicable, being sure to well-water it to help it hydrate and avoid shock.

          For food trees, filbert and walnut are the surest bet, and the Oregon Home Orchard Society has a show with starts and scion wood available very early every spring.
          • Wonderful tips, friends. Now if only I could get my hands on a good field guide to native species... any favorites in that department?
            • Here's a great place to start:

              www.metro-region.org/index.c...id=22351

              Metro's native plant center provides an essential supply of rare native seeds and plant stock to support Metro's restoration projects.
              Photograph of the Willamette River Narrows

              Metro’s native plant center, located near Wanker’s Corner in Tualatin, provides an essential supply of rare native seeds and plant stock to support Metro’s restoration projects.

              In its first year more than 4,650 native trees and shrubs grown at the plant center went into the ground at ten different Metro natural areas. A long-term goal of the project is to be able to share stock and seeds with other organizations working on restoration throughout the region.
              Why a native plant center?

              At targeted natural areas around the region, Metro’s restoration work is aimed at reestablishing rare but vital habitat types that once thrived throughout the Willamette Valley. Often the native plant materials needed to do the job are hard to come by. Commercial stock can be unavailable, insufficient or too expensive and, at times, the genetics and collection practices are in question.
              Photograph of the Willamette River Narrows
              Helping hands

              Volunteers are integrated into all aspects of center operations, from constructing propagation beds to collecting seeds and maintaining plant stock.
              Need assistance?

              Marsha Holt Kingsley
              503-638-7240 | 503-701-7554 cell
              kingsleym@metro.dst.or.us
              • For what any of it is worth, I'm in the Capitol area and I spend all summer picking black berries, blueberries, philberts and what ever else from right off the side of the road (Around Salem and the rivers) Then I share, freeze and dry a lot of it. I just used a bag of feral strawberries from June the other night on ice cream Yummy. I am so up for a picking partner, and i have a kid that needs a picking partner too. I was thinking of crabbing off the Yaquina river banks this summer . Sounds good, fresh berries and crab. Oh my. Any takers? ( leave me a note through my profile)
                • Great stuff you guys please keep it comin!

                  Has anyone had any luck propagating Salal or Oregon-Grape? These are two of my favorite native woodland berries, they are prolific undergrowth, for the most part evergreen, and produce nutritious berries in quantity, reliably.

                  I would presume that the berries of both will germinate after a stratifying period, but what about cuttings or division? Anyone?

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