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First of all...Vinay, you are DA MAN! I saw your hexayurt at Bman this year, and have pretty much been obsessed with building one for next year ever since. So in my ruminations on the subject, I was concerned with the whole problem of taping it all together strongly and accurately on the playa, which can be pretty breezy under the best of conditions. So I thought about having some plastic or aluminum extruded clips made to hold the panels together at the proper angles. Have you ever seen those cheap little balsa wood toy gliders? The wings are thin sheets of balsa, and the body is a light rail of balsa. And there is a plastic clip with grooves that the wings slip into, and a grove that slips onto the body...do you know what I mean? On a larger scale, envision an H shape, except the sides of the H are bent at an angle of 15 degrees or 30 degrees to the center bar...that is the cross section of the clips, and they would be 4 feet or 8 feet in length, depending on which seam they held together. The edge of the boards would slip into the channels formed by the H shape. Does that make any sense? I can send a conceptual drawing if anyone is interested.....
Anyway, my though is that some light plastic clips that hold almost the entire length of each seam between boards, and would hold the boards at the correct angle to each other, would really simplify construction. The boards could then be taped right to the clips. I suspect the clips would also help compensate for small errors in cutting the boards by covering over gaps, etc. The down side is...I did some very cursory research on pricing custom plastic extrusions, and there were some $1000 minimum charge for custom jobs. However, if enough people were interested? The cost per each yurt could go way down. Anyway...just an idea....
Also......Vinay, could you put out some info on the actual yurt that was at Bman this year? It had a peaked roof at the entrance. I am interested in the size and shape of the sheets you cut for the entrance roof, etc. And the tape anchors came out from the edge seams on the roof, not like the ones you have given instructions for online. So can you please comment a bit on these modifications? I believe that type model is the type I want to try to build. Thanks again for your great contributions to humanity...
Steve
Anyway, my though is that some light plastic clips that hold almost the entire length of each seam between boards, and would hold the boards at the correct angle to each other, would really simplify construction. The boards could then be taped right to the clips. I suspect the clips would also help compensate for small errors in cutting the boards by covering over gaps, etc. The down side is...I did some very cursory research on pricing custom plastic extrusions, and there were some $1000 minimum charge for custom jobs. However, if enough people were interested? The cost per each yurt could go way down. Anyway...just an idea....
Also......Vinay, could you put out some info on the actual yurt that was at Bman this year? It had a peaked roof at the entrance. I am interested in the size and shape of the sheets you cut for the entrance roof, etc. And the tape anchors came out from the edge seams on the roof, not like the ones you have given instructions for online. So can you please comment a bit on these modifications? I believe that type model is the type I want to try to build. Thanks again for your great contributions to humanity...
Steve
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Thu, September 13, 2007 - 5:20 PMThe clips sound like an interesting idea that might work really well. Please keep us posted.
I am going to build some hexayurts this year also. I'm thinking about how to strengthen them so I can use one as a tool shed in a windy area. I also want to strengthen the playa hexayurt so someone who is slightly out of it can lean against the walls without damaging them. I have some ideas but no practical experience except with cardboard. lol! Gotta start somewhere.
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Sat, September 15, 2007 - 11:01 PMHi, I've been thinking about something similar, using plastic piano hinge instead of tape, like that available from <a href=www.ceshepherd.com/hinge_plastic.html>C. E. Shepherd</a>.
And if 1/2 inch insulation board is used, instead of the 1 inch suggested, it could be attached with reusable plastic rivets like these from <a href=www.itw-fastex.com/catalog/.../c/16/p/5 The 60070001 has a minimum panel thickness of .650, which would be the .500 of the insulating board plus .115 for the hinge material plus washers or some kind of plastic strip on the inside of the hexayurt. I plan to get some materials and test this idea over the next few weeks. Keep the ideas flowing! -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Sat, September 15, 2007 - 11:04 PMdamn, the links were OK in the preview... not sure how to put links in these posts, sorry... you'll have to edit the URLs to get rid of the superfluous characters on the end.
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Tue, September 18, 2007 - 7:27 AMHi! Sorry I haven't been able to reply to this earlier.
So here's the issues with extrusions.
The first is joining them to the panels. Odds-are it's going to be a pressure fit, so the extrusion will bite into the panel, possibly cutting through the thin aluminium skin. Using the clips *during assembly* might work well, but really, if you need it fast, the right answer is the folding hexayurt (clips on the main web site.)
Second thing is the tension ring. The strength of the hexayurt is that loop of tape which goes all the way around the bottom of the roof cone in a continuous strap. That's what stops the roof cone "splaying" (spreading and tearing at a seam) if the wind gets too strong. With extrusions, you'd need to fasten the extrusions to each other somehow, maybe bolts? to provide the same tension ring function.
Finally there's rain. Runs down the roof, into the U-shaped extrusion, flows around it, and into the hexayurt interior.
So I'm not saying that extrusions aren't possible, but I don't think they're a good idea **for polyisocyanurate boards.**
But if you were working in a permanent material, like a plywood / cement board laminate, or a proper structural insulated panel, then I think that a good, solid extrusion would be a very plausible way of joining the panels together, perhaps even with bolts!
Glad you liked it on the playa :)
Vinay -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Tue, September 18, 2007 - 9:45 AMI guess I didn't really explain myself fully. What I had envisioned is actually covering all the clipped joints with tape. The clips would only be an aid to assembly, and help fill gaps, but the tape would still hold the whole structure together. So the board edges would just slip fit into the grooves on the clips, with no real pressure. And there would be a continuous loop of tape around the bottom of the roof cone providing structural support, and sealing out rain, etc. -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Wed, September 19, 2007 - 6:57 PMOh yeah, I see!
That would actually be really useful, because it would get rid of all the angle cutting, which is a real pain to do and can have health and safety issues if people are, for example, using a table saw without a proper dust handling rig.
Good idea! -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Sun, September 23, 2007 - 1:59 PMWhy not try an 'H' shaped spring clip. Use the paper clip model but, 'H' shaped lying horizontally. The Left and right upright legs of the 'H' could be bend to the 15/30 degree angle needed. I've made springs in the past and once you make the first one it gets easier. Tempering the wire is no big deal either. Build a simple jig and bend away!!!!!!!!! Give me a holler if you want more information. -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Sun, September 23, 2007 - 8:31 PMI do want more info. This sounds interesting.......but I can't quite visualize what you are talking about. Can you draw a picture or describe it differently? -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Mon, September 24, 2007 - 7:49 PMHi Stevan, Several different versions of the spring 'h' clip come to mind. Visualize the letter 'C' reversed and the letter 'C' facing forward. Push both letters (reversed and forward) towards each other. If they are attached at the touching center portion you now have a two sided clip.
Now lets make a super large scale version of the clip with a wire bending jig. You will need a piece of wood, hammer, finishing nails, wire, wire cutters and a marker. With the marker draw a large letter 'H' on your wood. Drive a nail into the wood at each of the further most marker strokes (top and bottom points of left and right legs) of the 'H'. Drive a nail at two points where the center stroke touches the left and right legs.
Now comes the wire bending. If we are holding the jig upright in the 'H' shape we will take the wire and run it up or down the left leg, then reverse the direction by 180 degrees and come back to the center of the 'H'. Using the center nail as a pivot point make a 90 degree bend across the center portion of the 'H'. Upon reaching the right leg of the 'H' we use the center pivot nail and make a 90 degree turn extending the wire to the top or bottom of that 'H' leg. When we get to the top or bottom we use that nail as a pivot point and reverse the wire bending it 180 degrees until it reaches the other end of that leg. We then clip the wire with our wire cutters which is now 'H' shaped. We now have a very primitive, large 'H' clip. If the wire is steel we could then temper it for the spring tension. Metal strapping would also work with this jig.
After making the large sized 'H' clip you can reduce the size of the jig and scale it down for the material you are using 1/2, 5/8, or 3/4". By altering the angle of the upper and lower portions of the legs on the 'H' you can create the 15 to 30 degree angle the roof and intersecting side joints use. If you wanted to get even more ambitious you could make a set of male/female stamps (easy enough to do) for the wire shaping instead of using the wire bending jig.
As a point of interest.... look at a clothe pin and its spring mechanism.
I think something that might even be simpler than the 'H' clip would be using some PVC tubing (3/4, or 1" dia.). Cut two lengths and glue to each other (like a double barrel shotgun barrel). If using EMT, it could be spot welded or bolted. The length of each can be whatever 2", 3", 6" or as long as you like.... Cut a groove the length on both outer sides. It should be just slightly smaller than the size of the material you are connecting. Slide these connectors on to both pieces of material. Then tape. Should make alignment very simple.
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Fri, September 28, 2007 - 9:19 PMYeah, I see what you mean now. I did actually think about using PVC pipe as well (since there does not seem to be any cheap square channel plastic or aluminum out there). At least I can give that a try without spending a ton of money...I just need some sections of pipe and some PVC glue. I will probably wait until spring to start on this project, since my storage space for the yurt walls is pretty limited. Or maybe I will get ambitious and clean out my shed before the snow starts.... -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Sat, September 29, 2007 - 2:58 AMStevan.... A few more thoughts about using grooved cut PVC as roof and side wall connectors. Instead of using glue, use an enlarged 'bobby pin' that would slide into the two pieces of PVC, holding them next to each other. If the 'bobby pin' is long enough it could go all the way through and be 'pig tailed.' Even cording would work. Now here is the neat part of doing it this way, the angle can be altered to fit the roof or side boards using the same PVC connector with 'bobby pin' clip just by rotating both pieces to the angle needed. As well as very inexpensive. Here in Jacksonville, FL., at Home Depot I bought a bundle (ten lenghts of 10' long 3/4" PVC for less that $20.00 if I recall correctly. If you are making 2 - 3" long PVC connectors two lengths of 1" PVC and using aluminim chain link fence ties ($2.00 or 3.00) for your 'bobby pin clip ties'......... very little investment. Go by your local plumber and tell them about your project and the 'Hexayurt' and I would bet they would give you enough PVC to prove the principle of PVC connectors (1 or 2 feet worth.) They usually have alittle scrape PVC left over after most jobs. -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Tue, October 2, 2007 - 7:02 PMHey guys, check out: www.outwatercatalogs.com/2007_...ay.cfm for some more ideas.
Just got a ride to the nearest city (El Paso) yesterday, and couldn't find any aluminized insulation board at all. Checked both Home Depot and Lowe's. Dammity damn damn. -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Mon, October 8, 2007 - 12:42 AMJohn..... Outstanding site for connectors. This company may have something that would work for our application. If they don't have anything that is large enough maybe we can tape or glue a 3/16, 1/4 or 5/16" piece of material that extends past the edge of our material that would serve as the connector point with their product. If not, there may be something with a different application in the market place but would serve our purposes. This is the beauty of the 'TRIBE'...... each of us trigger the next step in developement of a project like this. -
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Re: Idea for hexayurt
Mon, October 8, 2007 - 2:29 PMYeah, if I could get some of those plastic hinges with a 1" channel width, I would be all over it. Sooner or later I do expect to find something suitable, or easily modifiable, that will hold those pesky panels together....
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