I have made all of my kavals from African blackwood, cocuswood and snakewood since 1974...
there are no finer woods for this purpose ... but these can be extremely hard to come by and expensive.

The "African ebony" you refer to is actually African blackwood.... totally different from ebony...
The Scot's traditionally buy only the lowest grades, complaining that they cannot charge sufficiently
for their instruments.

Almond is an inferior wood ... but must be used in Bulgaria because of the scarcity of dogwood.
Haskovo is in the centre of Bulgaria's almond oil producing area ...

Yes, it is very likely that I am confusing the two.

I have been in contact with Veselin Hasabaliev and will be buying one of his Orfei kavals! Thank you very much for your guidance in this matter, Aleksandr.

You can even get a high D penny whistle for more than $ 500...
I have a couple of kavals, some of them considerably better than others. They all play (the ones that didn't I sent back to the internet stores where I got them from...). The main difference is the quality of the bore, resulting in a huge difference in tone, response and tuning. If you look through the instrument and you can clearly see steps, where the drill has been inserted and drawn back, this doesn't necessarily mean it is a bad instrument but it should arouse your suspicion. The really good ones have a smooth bore throughout, with no chips or splinters visible. If this is not the case, it may result in poor tone, bad response (especially in the kaba register) and bad tuning in the higher registers; even if the basic pitch of the instrument is correct and the tone holes are set correctly, the 3rd and 4th registers can be out of tune with the low ones. Sometimes, the cheap ones need some reworking of the toneholes and the mouthpiece. For me (being an instrument maker) this is not much of a problem (provided you know what you're doing...) but if you are not you might find yourself with a badly playing instrument, and you will probably blame it on yourself if you are not an experienced player. If the main bore is done badly there is not much you can do - reaming the bore until all the steps and chips have vanished will result in a different instrument with probably more issues than it had before. All my not-so-good kavals have issues of some kind - good tone, but bad tuning, good tuning but bad tone, one has a great clarinet register but a very weak kaba, one is fine for the kaba but the "hlopka"-techniques don't work properly and so on. If you want an instrument that is nice for just everything, there is no way around getting a professional instrument from a professional maker. IMO, for a starter it is essential having a good instrument or you will end up in frustration.
The type of "inlay" you're referring to is done very simply - these are short pieces of horn with metal rings between them, so it's not real inlay work. If you look at Veso's website you will see that he uses a very much different type of ornamentation on his "Orfei" model, I don't know how this is done. To me, it doesn't look like it has bees cast into the material like it is done with the pewter inlays in wood on some fancy kavals.