The color Purple and faire clothing

topic posted Tue, October 20, 2009 - 6:38 PM by  Kimiko
Share/Save/Bookmark
Advertisement
I am thinking ahead to making a new outfit of a middle class sort, and the color purple is playing in my creative mind. Why? Because it is that color that everyone avoids in every shade and fiber, even if the historical basis is "None shall wear in his apparel cloth of gold or silver tissued, *silk of color purple* under the degree of an earl, except Knights of the Garter in their purple mantles only" (emphasis mine).~ From Elizabeth I's Decrees (1597 statue of apparel) (Note that Henry VIII's statute that I've found somewhere in my books also includes blue silk.)

I am thinking a purple wool for a kirtle or gown, tending more to the red than the blue, but purple none-the-less. In my area most groups subscribe to the NO PURPLE rule of CIRGA, and while I do have a lovely purple silk damask, I do not plan on wearing purple silk, just purple wool.

Why I bring this up here is... this is one area where we have not corrected the misperceptions at any event I know of. The theatrical perspective is NO on Purple, except for the Monarch. But rarely do I see the Monarch wearing purple, and it is usually purple velvet sometimes silk, and it is obviously the Monarch from all the bling on said monarch.

Is this something that you folks think can be finally dispensed with? We have the Tudor Tailor book, and there is a great image of ladies doing their wash (pg 47), and one is wearing a purple gown, another with a purple skirt (or perhaps it is a shade of violet). They even discuss the color of purple being made with woad and madder for the humbler folks, or a finer version dyed "in grain" using either kermes or cochineal (pg 41). Or is this more a theatrical decision that shall remain among those who enforce theatrical fabric choices?

I await your thoughts and discussion on this.
posted by:
Kimiko
Fresno
Advertisement
Advertisement
  • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

    Tue, October 20, 2009 - 7:40 PM
    The no purple rule as far as I know is/has been theatrical and practical. With a "no purple" you don't get into endless arguments about whether this particular fabric works for a character or not; and we all know the folks who behave like camels - give them an inch and they'll take over the whole tent which is to say they would want purple or something close to purple just to do it.

    Neither of these things apply to you. So if your guild, and the producers of the events you go to don't care, go for it.

    I do know three APQ's playng Elizabeth 1st with purple gowns - either all purple or partially purple.
  • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

    Fri, October 23, 2009 - 2:12 AM
    From the Statutes of Apparel, 1574: "Any silk of the color of purple, cloth of gold tissued, nor fur of sables, but only the King, Queen, King's mother, children, brethren, and sisters, uncles and aunts; and except dukes, marquises, and earls, who may wear the same in doublets, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns, and hose; and those of the Garter, purple in mantles only." (This was carried over from the clauses of the statute of King Henry VIII and Queen Mary.)

    The truest purple came from cochineal, which was very expensive. Sure, you could use woad with a madder over-dye, but it wouldn't be purple. It would be mauve. Woad will not give as brilliant a blue hue as indigo and madder can come out more brown-tinged or orange-ish depending on the type and amount of mordant used (cochineal also gives a brilliant red - it's all in the mordant).

    I'd say go with another color.
    • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

      Sat, October 24, 2009 - 7:48 PM
      Carrie, you seem to know quite a bit on dyes. In my area, anyone who sees anything in the purplish range, from lavender to mauve to deep eggplant purple lumps them all together as purple to avoid. Do you know of any site or book that I can turn to and help them to find the purples (as a visual guide) that were created during the time period that would have been used by the monarch, and those that really aren't purple and hence useable by the common folk, like the madder/woad mix you mentioned?

      Thank you.
      • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

        Wed, October 28, 2009 - 11:29 AM
        HI Kimiko,

        Take a look around this site: www.renaissancedyeing.com/store...range/
        They do period type dyeing and have color samples of various dyed materials posted.

        Vel
        • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

          Wed, October 28, 2009 - 11:46 AM
          Thank you Vel. Cherylyn on Elizabethan Costumes Tribe mentioned the same company, and I will be getting a sample swatch card. But I also need to know which period dyes (and mordants) go into making the colors to provide better info to others.

          Long ago I got into dyeing when I did spinning, so I may take out my dye pots and get into the natural dyeing that has sat at the back of my mind, just to learn more. Or maybe talk to a dyer I know down south (Bjo Trimble, I keep forgetting her SCA name), maybe take a workshop weekend, and see what she knows.

          Thanks again.
          • Re: The color Purple and faire clothing

            Wed, October 28, 2009 - 4:21 PM

            Kimiko -

            Been following the thread on EC and here, and after reading it all I must say that, given the amount of historical information available I cannot see why you should'nt make a dress with a variation or grade of the color purple in it.

            We all have this ingrained idea, of lower class english dressing in nothing but earthtones but, the reality appears to be quite different. Red kirtles seem to have been abundant, and references to a multitude of colors including purples and variations thereof are clearly in the historical record of what middle, and lower class english wore. I think if your group allows the historical color scheme then yes, go for it! make it as historically accurate for your theatrical needs and make both an impact, and a learning/teaching statement out of it.

            Good luck, and please post pics when your finished! :)

Recent topics in "Ren Faire History Snobs"

Topic Author Replies Last Post
Re-enactment Commercial Pax 4 Today, 8:58 AM
Peeve 20 Yesterday, 9:57 AM
Excavating Shakespeare Pax 0 December 4, 2009
Why is it called a Turkey? offlineNorman 4 December 3, 2009