Chilaquiles
Serves4 (light main course)

* Active time:40 min
* Start to finish:40 min

Though you may not be familiar with the name, chilaquiles are the forebears of modern nachos. But the abundance of fresh, flavorful toppings—cool cilantro, salty queso fresco, crisp red onion—makes even the most fluorescent "nacho cheese" seem colorless.

* 1 (8-oz) package 6-inch corn tortillas
* 1 cup vegetable oil
* 3 cups tomato salsa (26 oz)
* 1 cup chopped cilantro, divided
* 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
* 1/2 cup sour cream
* 1/4 cup heavy cream
* 1/2 cup chopped red onion
* 1 cup crumbled queso fresco or ricotta salata (1/4 lb)

*
Stack tortillas and cut stack into 8 triangles.
*
Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, then fry tortillas in 6 batches, turning once, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes per batch. Drain on layers of paper towel.
*
Purée salsa with 1/2 cup cilantro in a blender.
*
Pour off all but 2 tablespoons oil from skillet, then cook garlic over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, about 2 minutes. Add salsa mixture and cook, stirring, until sauce comes to a simmer, about 2 minutes.
*
Whisk together sour cream, heavy cream, and 1/4 teaspoon salt.
*
Spread tortillas on a platter, then spoon sauce over them. Drizzle with sour-cream mixture, then sprinkle with onion, cheese, and remaining 1/2 cup cilantro.